DIVE DEEPER:

• Viscose is made from Cellulose, a starch-like carbohydrate which is generally sourced from the pulp of trees, such as eucalyptus, beech and Bamboo. After being debarked, logs are chipped then dissolved chemically, which is what gives the material its semi-synthetic status. The resultant viscose pulp is passed through a spinneret to create filaments, which are then spun into yarn and subsequently knitted or woven into viscose fabric.

• Chemicals used in the production of viscose include: sodium hydroxide, carbon disulphide, sulphuric acid, sodium sulfate and zinc sulfate. Chemical reactions during processing can cause carbon disulphide and hydrogen disulphide to be released at a rate of 20-30 grams for every kilogram of viscose produced. When not managed responsibly, the chemicals can severely impact the health of workers and the local community, as well as polluting the surrounding environment.

• Pollution is not a given in the production of viscose, which can be manufactured in a closed-loop system, which avoids such hazards and pollution by capturing the chemicals for re-use and preventing them from entering the waste stream.

• It is estimated that approximately 200 million trees, including those from ancient and endangered forests, are used to produce MMCFs each year.

• Sourcing certifications, such as FSC and PEFC are utilised to ensure responsible forestry. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC-certified MMCFs increased to around 55%-60% of all MMCFs in 2020.

• Canopy’s Hot Button Ranking is observed as a leading assessment of environmental risk levels. A ‘green shirt’ ranking is considered the lowest risk and currently over half the global viscose supply qualifies for the ranking.

• The leading producers of viscose are Lenzing AG and Aditya Birla Group; while approximately 60% of viscose is produced in China.

• In 2018, Birla Cellulose began to implement closed-loop technologies at all of its MMCF manufacturing facilities. In its 2020-21 sustainability report, the company claims three out of seven of its MMCF manufacturing sites are EU BAT (Best Available Techniques) compliant. It has a goal of full compliance by 2022. Lenzing has also committed to closed-loop production, according to EU BAT standards, recovering, converting and returning carbon bisulfide and hydrogen sulfide back to the production process.

• Enka, who supplies viscose to Stella McCartney, sources its pulp from Domsjö Fabriker in Sweden, the world’s only closed-loop bleach plant without any emissions. Its viscose received the Cradle to Cradle Product Innovation Institute’s Gold Material Health Certificate.

• Further standards and certifications, which viscose producers and suppliers are incorporating into their processes include: ZDHC MMCF Guidelines, EU Eco Label, STeP by Oeko-Tex and Bluesign.