Tencel Luxe

Tencel Luxe swatches / Source: Lenzing

AfricaAnti-MicrobialAsiaBreathableCelluloseEuropeLightweightLyocellNorth AmericaOceaniaSouth AmericaTencel LuxeTextiles

WHAT WE SAY:

We do not buy into Higg’s now much debated narrative that silk is the fibre with the highest environmental impact, given all the well-known flaws in its data. However, while we might be laser focused on helping rid the world of plastic, we are not blind to the fact that many consumers will reject animal-derived fibres, while others also are not able or willing to pay the premium prices that ethically-produced silk demands.

Enter Tencel Luxe, a silk-like lyocell fabric that is a hundred times better than the everlasting, microplastic-shedding, fossil fuel-based synthetic alternatives.

Tencel Luxe

WHAT IS TENCEL LUXE?

Launched in 2017, by sustainable fabric maker Lenzing, Tencel Luxe is produced by a Lyocell process that creates an extremely fine filament yarn. This results in smoother, silkier fabrics than those produced by the conventional lyocell method.
The branded fibre offers a liquid-like drape, is naturally breathable and has greater colour fastness than Silk.
Tencel Luxe filaments can be blended with other premium natural fibres, including silk, cashmere or Wool for use in luxury fashion garments and bedding.
Products made using Tencel Luxe are commercially available from designer Mara Hoffman, maternity wear brand Emilia George and premium bedding company Hefel, as well as featuring in the Viktor&Rolf Haute Couture S/S 22 collection.

KEY PROPERTIES:

Anti-Microbial
Breathable
Lightweight

INDUSTRY:

Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Commercially Available

DIVE DEEPER:

While lightweight, lyocell (1.5 grams per cubic centimetre) weighs more than silk (1.33 grams per cubic centimetre), giving it a better drape effect.
Its smoothness can be seen under an electron microscope - this can be measured by Tissue Softness Analyzer tests.
When the fibre is dyed, the colour penetrates deeper into the fibre structure and is chemically bound to it, making the fabric less prone to fading than silk.
The fabric has also earned United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) BioPreferred designation.
Lenzing’s lyocell filaments are derived from wood harvested from certified and controlled sources and fibres are also available with FSC or PEFC certification upon request.
Lenzing promises full supply chain transparency via its unique identification system that can trace its fibres used in textile end products.
The company’s solvent-spinning process reuses the solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99% and “close to zero emissions.” This closed-loop process has been given a European Award for the Environment from the European Commission.
Tencel Luxe is produced by sustainable Viscose and lyocell producer Lenzing. Founded in Austria, in 1938, the maker of Tencel Luxe, Lenzing, now employs nearly 8,000 people globally, generating over EUR 2 billion (USD 2 billion) revenue.
The company achieved a platinum EcoVadis CSR rating in 2021 (putting it in the top 1% of assessed companies); while environmental protection organisation Canopy ranks Lenzing as one of the top viscose producers for sustainable wood and pulp sourcing practices.
In February 2020, Lenzing opened its second pilot plant dedicated to the production of Tencel Luxe, in response to growing demand from designers for sustainable solutions.
Looking to the future, Lenzing has filed a patent on the recycling of lyocell for use as a raw material for lyocell production.

Model wearing dress made with Tencel Luxe / Source: Lenzing

Dress made using Tencel Luxe / Source: Lenzing

KEY FACTS:

1.5g

Lyocell weighs 1.5 grams per cubic centimetre, giving it a better drape effect than silk.

99%

The company’s solvent-spinning process reuses the solvent at a recovery rate of more than 99% and 'close to zero emissions.'

$2bn

Lenzing now employs nearly 8,000 people globally, generating over USD 2 billion revenue.

Key Questions to Ask:

Can you absorb or manage the price premium?

Tencel Luxe is a premium product, with a significantly higher price point than Cotton and synthetics. While you should lean into both its sustainable credentials and superior qualities, unfortunately it is currently less suitable for mass market products.

Is Tencel Luxe robust enough for your needs?

While it boasts strength and durability, pure lyocell-based fabrics can also be delicate and crease easily. They require cool washing and minimal ironing. Your end-product may need a blend of Tencel Luxe with other fabrics to get your required characteristics. This is not necessarily a problem, as long as whatever you blend the lyocell with is both compostable and itself sustainable, to make using this fibre worthwhile.

Can your finished Tencel Luxe product or scraps be recycled into new Tencel Luxe?

With the Lenzing patent for using recycled lyocell, there is the hope that in the not-too-distant future that the material can be recycled into fresh Tencel Luxe, rather than decomposed. If Lenzing can achieve that goal, a buy-back or returns scheme would be welcome.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:

Carbon Zero Lyocell

MATERIAL

This carbon-neutral lyocell is raising the bar for low-impact fibres.

Tencel Refibra

MATERIAL

This blended lyocell fibre hints at a circular fashion system, thanks to its use of cotton textile waste.

Lenzing EcoVero

MATERIAL

A traceable, responsibly sourced, low impact viscose already used by mass market brands.

C-Fiber

MATERIAL

Pangaia’s regenerative seaweed and eucalyptus-based lyocell fibre for the fashion industry.