Sepimax Zen

Seppic’s Cosmetic Mixology concept / Source: Seppic

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WHAT WE SAY:

It is not enough to strive for plastic-free packaging, while the contents are packed with invisible microplastics. Synthetic polymers, which do not fall into the specific microplastics classification, can still cause just as much harm when they reach the natural environment and it is high time the beauty industry cut them out.

Global ingredient manufacturer Seppic is making plastic-free formulation easier and more accessible than ever with Sepimax Zen. The non-microplastic polymer can be used in everything from shampoo to sunscreens, offering all the properties of its plasticky peers, but without the damage. Microplastics are a grey area, so while the ECHA would not class Sepimax Zen as a microplastic, others would. Clearer definitions are sorely needed, but we consider this inherently biodegradable ingredient to be a good improvement on the non-biodegradable products it is replacing.

Sepimax Zen

WHAT IS SEPIMAX ZEN?

Sepimax Zen, patented by manufacturer Seppic, is classified as a non-microplastic polymer for cosmetic products, offering the same qualities as carbomer without the use of microplastics. It is a thickening, stabilising and texturising powder polymer.
Resistant to electrolytes, Sepimax Zen guarantees viscosity and stability in beauty formulas and stabilises oil. It provides a velvety finish, can be used to create clear aqueous gels and produces a fine foam when mixed with surfactants.
It can be used in face and bodycare, suncare, haircare, make-up and hygiene products, such as shampoo, shower gel and facial cleansers.
Sepimax Zen is currently used in more than 2,000 formulas around the world, including for brands, such as No7, Dior, Elemis, Le Labo, e.l.f., Dermalogica and Aesop.
Unlike its microplastic counterparts, it is inherently biodegradable according to OECD 302B.

KEY PROPERTIES:

Transparent

INDUSTRY:

Beauty

AVAILABILITY:

Commercially Available

DIVE DEEPER:

Here is why plastic in our personal care formulations is an invisible but insidious problem. Carbomer, a synthetic polymer often used as a thickener or filler in cosmetics, is second on the list of the top 10 most common microplastics found in Beat the Microbead’s registered products. Approximately 11% of beauty products have carbomer in their ingredient list.
Classed as poorly biodegradable, the acrylate-based polymer poses a “severe problem” due to the quantities used within products. Its effects on the environment are expected to be similar to those of microplastics as they have been found in the gills of fish and, upon entering waterways, form films that attract and carry environmental pollutants.
Despite their environmental impact, those who manufacture and use ingredients like carbomer argue they should not be considered a microplastic, therefore not subject to any bans. Reasoning includes that acrylate polymers do not fit the criteria of microplastics related to physical state, morphology and dimensions.
Despite this grey area, 84% of consumers, surveyed by CodeCheck, consider it very important that cosmetic products do not contain microplastics, while 99% would like to see a general ban on poorly biodegradable substances.
Sepimax Zen helps answer this call, as well as appealing to more health conscious consumers. The Environmental Working Group gives Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 (Sepimax Zen’s INCI) a score of one, citing no concerns with cancer, developmental and reproductive toxicity, and allergies and immunotoxicity.
Sepimax Zen also forms the basis of Cosmetic Mixology, a home cosmetics concept, launched in 2022, which allows consumers to mix their own personalised skin care.
Sepimax Zen is part of a wider commitment by Seppic to create products which have a lower impact on the environment. Other new releases are bio-based, inherently or readily biodegradable, and certified to NATRUE, COSMOS, Ecocert and Mass Balance Standards.
Seppix has five manufacturing facilities in France, the US and China. Environmental mitigation strategies include recycling up to 95% of waste, zero-waste plant design, water pre-treatment and gas-charge units.

Sepimax Zen formulation / Seppic

Sepimax Zen can be used to create formulas for beauty / Source: Seppic

KEY FACTS:

84%

84% of consumers consider it very important that cosmetic products do not contain microplastics.

11%

Approximately 11% of beauty products contain microplastic carbomer.

95%

Seppix recycles up to 95% of its waste.

Key Questions to Ask:

Could you use Sepimax Zen as a launchpad for ‘mix your own’ formulations?

Seppic advises that the ideal application for Sepimax Zen is in those where a consumer adds their own active ingredient at home. Taking inspiration from the likes of Opulus and Exponent, these DIY products help keep products fresher for longer, cutting down on product waste and also negate the need for plastic packaging as powders can easily be shipped in paper.

Does your packaging match your formulation?

Plastic-free ingredients should go hand-in-hand with plastic-free packaging. If a brand is promoting that it is microplastic-free, but comes in plastic packs, the message will be undermined and, at worst, consumers will boycott the company. Ensure you align product with packaging.

How will you guarantee the plastic-free status of your product and what definition are you using?

While Sepimax Zen is listed by Seppic as being a non-microplastic polymer, according to the ECHA report proposing restrictions on intentionally added microplastics, Beat the Microbead includes Polyacrylate Crosspolymer-6 on its red list. This list includes products that “have been found to contain ingredients, which are commonly considered to be microplastic ingredients,” and throws into question the viability of Sepimax Zen. Verifying its status, being clear about your definition and communicating this to the end consumer is paramount.