Orange Fiber & Tencel

Orange Fiber components / Source: Orange Fiber

CelluloseEuropeLow-CarbonLyocellOrange Fiber & TencelTextilesUpcycled

WHAT WE SAY:

We would love this fibre to succeed as, given the world’s diverse climate, it makes sense to be able to produce cellulosic fibres from a renewable local feedstock – whether that is eucalyptus, beech or citrus fruit agri-waste.

However, we cannot help but be concerned by Orange Fiber’s slow progress in scaling its fibre. We had hoped that the involvement of Lenzing – one of the world’s most experienced and sustainable lyocell producers – would have accelerated things, but the project appears to have stalled. The story behind Orange Fiber is great and we can see luxury brands continuing to use it to help bolster their sustainability credentials. But we need and want so much more and fast.

Orange Fiber & Tencel

WHAT IS ORANGE FIBER & TENCEL?

Orange Fiber x Tencel is a Lyocell fiber, which uses pulp extracted as a byproduct of citrus farming, combined with FSC-certified wood pulp as feedstocks.
Lenzing is one of the biggest and most sustainable producers of lyocell, modal and Viscose fibres in the world, using low-impact, closed-loop processes and FSC-certified wood sources.
Orange Fiber is an Italian startup, who is focused on transforming citrus fruit waste into valuable fibres and textiles.
The limited edition collaboration was designed to showcase alternative sources of Cellulose to the traditional wood pulp. It was launched in October 2021, however at the time of writing (mid 2022), neither company had released details of any retail products featuring the fibre.
The collaboration between Tencel and Orange Fiber was shortlisted for the Cellulose Fiber Innovation of the Year Award 2022.

KEY PROPERTIES:

Low-Carbon
Upcycled

INDUSTRY:

Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Limited Orders

DIVE DEEPER:

Founded in 1938, Lenzing is headquartered in Austria and is one of the world’s leading makers of cellulosic fibres. The company generates revenues of over EUR 2 billion (USD 2 billion) and has nearly 8,000 employees.
Its Tencel brand is the company’s flagship lyocell fibre. Lyocell is a more sustainable type of rayon than viscose, because the non-toxic NMMO (N-Methylmorpholine N oxide) solution is used as a dissolving agent, in a closed-loop process.
The Tencel x Orange Fiber lyocell fibre is made from a mixture of orange and wood pulp, using waste as an ingredient alongside wood pulp. The percentages of orange pulp and wood pulp used to create the fibre are currently unknown.
Lenzing reports that 99% of the wood and dissolving wood pulp it uses is either certified to FSC or PEFC standards or “inspected in line with these standards.” It is not clear whether 100% of the wood pulp in the Tencel x Orange Fiber collaboration is FSC-certified.
Orange Fiber is an Italian startup, founded in 2014. It focuses on oranges as they are one of the largest fruit crops globally, as well as being one that produces a lot of waste. Indeed, approximately 50% of the fresh fruit mass is wasted during juice production, generating 10 million metric tons of cellulose-rich waste a year.
Italian designer Salvatore Ferragamo was the first to release a collection featuring Orange Fiber in 2017; since then it has also featured in H&M’s 2019 Conscious collection.
Orange Fiber claims that its production process generates 40% less kilograms CO2-eq, when compared to the average cellulose production, although there is no independent evaluation of these claims.
Lenzing plans to offer co-branding marketing materials to companies creating products and collections with the Tencel x Orange Fiber.

KEY FACTS:

40%

Orange Fiber claims its production process generates 40% less kilograms CO2-eq, compared to the average cellulose production.

1/2

Of the fresh fruit mass is wasted during juice production, generating 10 million metric tons of cellulose-rich waste a year.

99%

99% of the wood and dissolving wood pulp Lenzing uses is either certified to FSC or PEFC standards or “inspected in line with these standards.”

Key Questions to Ask:

How viable is this as a fibre?

The biggest question we have about the Orange Fiber x Tencel is, 'what is happening?' Since the initial announcement in July 2021, where the companies said that the fibre would hit the market in October of that year, we have heard nothing. This suggests that there may have been issues in scaling the fibre’s production, which is disappointing, as in 2021, Orange Fiber’s collaboration with luxury Italian tie and scarf maker E. Marinella was chosen as a gift during the Italian-led G20.

Are there better alternative sources of cellulose?

Although the concept of giving agricultural citrus waste a second lease of life is a good idea, it is worth considering whether there are any other sources of waste, which could cause more environmental damage if they were to make it to landfill. Textile waste is a growing problem, with companies like Evrnu, Renewcell and Spinnova working to regenerate existing textile waste into virgin-quality fibres. Depending on where you are located, this may be a more suitable feedstock.

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Orange Fiber & Tencel

MAKER

Orange Fiber

The winner of Vogue Yoox’s Planet Positive Fashion challenge, Orange Fibre transforms citrus fruit waste into luxury fabric.

Orange Fiber & Tencel

WHAT WE SAY:

We would love this fibre to succeed as, given the world’s diverse climate, it makes sense to be able to produce cellulosic fibres from a renewable local feedstock – whether that is eucalyptus, beech or citrus fruit agri-waste.

WHAT IS ORANGE FIBER & TENCEL?

KEY PROPERTIES:

INDUSTRY:

AVAILABILITY:

Limited Orders

DIVE DEEPER:

Founded in 1938, Lenzing is headquartered in Austria and is one of the world’s leading makers of cellulosic fibres. The company generates revenues of over EUR 2 billion (USD 2 billion) and has nearly 8,000 employees.

Its Tencel brand is the company’s flagship lyocell fibre. Lyocell is a more sustainable type of rayon than viscose, because the non-toxic NMMO (N-Methylmorpholine N oxide) solution is used as a dissolving agent, in a closed-loop process.

The Tencel x Orange Fiber lyocell fibre is made from a mixture of orange and wood pulp, using waste as an ingredient alongside wood pulp. The percentages of orange pulp and wood pulp used to create the fibre are currently unknown.

Lenzing reports that 99% of the wood and dissolving wood pulp it uses is either certified to FSC or PEFC standards or “inspected in line with these standards.” It is not clear whether 100% of the wood pulp in the Tencel x Orange Fiber collaboration is FSC-certified.

Italian designer Salvatore Ferragamo was the first to release a collection featuring Orange Fiber in 2017; since then it has also featured in H&M’s 2019 Conscious collection.

Orange Fiber claims that its production process generates 40% less kilograms CO2-eq, when compared to the average cellulose production, although there is no independent evaluation of these claims.

Lenzing plans to offer co-branding marketing materials to companies creating products and collections with the Tencel x Orange Fiber.

KEY FACTS:

40%

1/2

99%

Key Questions to Ask:

How viable is this as a fibre?

Are there better alternative sources of cellulose?

MEET THE MAKERS:

Lenzing

KEY PRODUCTS

LOCATION
Europe

Orange Fiber

KEY PRODUCTS

LOCATION
Europe

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Orange Fiber & Tencel

WHAT WE SAY:

We would love this fibre to succeed as, given the world’s diverse climate, it makes sense to be able to produce cellulosic fibres from a renewable local feedstock – whether that is eucalyptus, beech or citrus fruit agri-waste.

WHAT IS ORANGE FIBER & TENCEL?

KEY PROPERTIES:

INDUSTRY:

AVAILABILITY:

Limited Orders

DIVE DEEPER:

Founded in 1938, Lenzing is headquartered in Austria and is one of the world’s leading makers of cellulosic fibres. The company generates revenues of over EUR 2 billion (USD 2 billion) and has nearly 8,000 employees.

Its Tencel brand is the company’s flagship lyocell fibre. Lyocell is a more sustainable type of rayon than viscose, because the non-toxic NMMO (N-Methylmorpholine N oxide) solution is used as a dissolving agent, in a closed-loop process.

The Tencel x Orange Fiber lyocell fibre is made from a mixture of orange and wood pulp, using waste as an ingredient alongside wood pulp. The percentages of orange pulp and wood pulp used to create the fibre are currently unknown.

Lenzing reports that 99% of the wood and dissolving wood pulp it uses is either certified to FSC or PEFC standards or “inspected in line with these standards.” It is not clear whether 100% of the wood pulp in the Tencel x Orange Fiber collaboration is FSC-certified.

Italian designer Salvatore Ferragamo was the first to release a collection featuring Orange Fiber in 2017; since then it has also featured in H&M’s 2019 Conscious collection.

Orange Fiber claims that its production process generates 40% less kilograms CO2-eq, when compared to the average cellulose production, although there is no independent evaluation of these claims.

Lenzing plans to offer co-branding marketing materials to companies creating products and collections with the Tencel x Orange Fiber.

KEY FACTS:

40%

1/2

99%

Key Questions to Ask:

How viable is this as a fibre?

Are there better alternative sources of cellulose?

MEET THE MAKERS:

Lenzing

KEY PRODUCTS

LOCATION Europe

Orange Fiber

KEY PRODUCTS

LOCATION Europe

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LOCATION
Europe

LOCATION
Europe