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NuCycl

Nucycl regenerative fibre / Source: Nucycl
AsiaBreathableCottonEuropeLyocellNorth AmericaNuCyclRecyclableRecycledRegenerativeStrongTextiles

WHAT WE SAY:

Turning post-consumer textile waste into a stronger, recyclable fibre using Evrnu’s Nucycl™ "regenerative fibre technology," sounds like modern day alchemy.

We just hope that the technology does not suffer the same fate as the medieval science: luring people in but remaining forever just around the corner. The release of its first commercially available product is hugely encouraging; now we are just eagerly waiting more.

NuCycl

WHAT IS NUCYCL?

  • Evrnu’s Nucycl is a "regenerative fibre technology," which creates a recycled Lyocell fibre from 100% post-consumer textile waste.
  • The Nucycl r-lyocell fibre is both stronger than polyester and existing MMCFs and is itself recyclable multiple times, with no loss in quality.
  • The technology is compatible with existing production systems and Evrnu plans to license it to Cellulose pulp and fibre mills, in order to scale fibre production in 2023.
  • The first commercial product featuring 100% NuCycl r-lyocell is a black t-shirt from designer Carlos Campos, launched in April 2022.

KEY PROPERTIES:

  • Breathable
  • Recyclable
  • Recycled
  • Regenerative
  • Strong

INDUSTRY:

  • Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Commercially Available 


DIVE DEEPER:

  • In order to recover cellulose from discarded textiles, the lyocell process (also known as NMMO) or ionic solutions are used. Nucycl’s proprietary technology involves adding a reactor at the beginning of the process, enabling the cellulose to restructure into a stronger version of itself.
  • The company currently uses cotton rich post-consumer textile waste as its input source (although it states that in the future its technology will be able to process other fibre types, such as polyester and elastane, too).
  • Depending on the finished garment's requirements and the quality of the textile waste used, Evrnu’s process typically returns 30-100% of the input waste feedstock.
  • This is a huge development, given that currently most textile recycling results in a loss of quality known as ‘downcycling.’
  • Evrnu currently claims fibres created through Nucycl can be recycled up to five times without losing quality, although independent testing is required to confirm this figure.
  • According to Evrnu, the Nucycl process uses 98% less water in comparison to virgin cotton production.
Evrnu x Carlos Campos / Source: Evrnu
adidas x Stella McCartney x Evrnu collaboration / Source: Evrnu

KEY FACTS:

98%

The Nucycl process uses 98% less water, compared to virgin cotton production.

5x

Fibres created through Nucycl can be recycled up to five times without losing quality.


Key Questions to Ask:

What does Nucycl’s chemical reactor contain?

Lyocell is generally viewed as sustainable because the chemical process is a closed-loop system, with the solvents being reused and no effluents or gas emitted to the atmosphere. However, it is not clear yet whether Nucycl’s tweaking of this process maintains this.

How will supply chain quality and ethics be assured?

Evernu’s business model will involve licensing the Nucycl technology to pulp and fibre mills. You should confirm how the company audits licensees to ensure they are in line with agreed standards.

How will the textile waste be processed at scale?

Because of the immaturity of recycling technologies, there simply is not a mass, global industry designed to process post-consumer textile waste. Sorting this waste can be time-consuming, costly and occasionally error-strewn. Automated methods will help speed, but are still in their infancy.

Is it affordable?

As always with early-stage innovation, the costs involved are likely to be higher, although it is encouraging to see the first commercial offering, Carlos Campo’s t-shirt, retailing at only USD 10 higher than the rest of its t-shirt range (although the brand’s t-shirts retail for USD 100, so are at the premium end of the market). This price premium may limit the use of Nucycl r-lyocell to special editions or upmarket brands.

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