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Nettle fibre

AltagAnti-MicrobialBreathableElasticNettle FibreRegenerativeStrongTextiles

WHAT WE SAY:

You may know it best for its sting, but nettle has been used as a textile fibre since the Bronze Age and as brands seek to lower their environmental impact, the regenerative, abundant crop is experiencing a resurgence in interest.

The weed-like plant grows rapidly in the wild, does not need pesticides to grow and uses very little water. A hit among sustainability-focused brands like Pangaia and Huit, it is popular for creating denim-like fabrics and can be used to create silky textiles too. There is so much to love about this fibre, we think its comeback is well overdue.

Pangaia’s Panettle jacket / Source: Pangaia

WHAT IS NETTLE IS FIBRE?

  • Nettle fibre comes from the herbaceous perennial flowering plant that grows across Europe, North America, North Africa and parts of Asia. Because it is essentially a weed, it grows in abundance across these territories, often in gardens, hedgerows, fields and woodlands.
  • There are three fibre-producing species of nettle: European nettle, Ramie and Himalayan nettle. European nettle is most difficult to grow commercially and Himalayan nettle is the species of choice for yarns, which is generally wild harvested and rain-fed.
  • Harvested in the off-season, nettle fibre provides cash income for subsistence farmers in Himalayan growing regions.
  • The fibres come from the nettle plant’s stem. Pliable, long and easily turned into yarn, they are hollow and more porous than other natural fibres, so have heightened qualities of both breathability and insulation. Nettle fibres also have the highest tensile strength of all natural fibres, with a tensile strength of 40-50 cN/tex, compared to around 16 for Cotton, 20-23 for linen and 22-30 for Hemp. Even polyester’s tensile strength is only a little higher at 60 c/N tex.
  • Stems are cut using a sharp knife, leaving the roots intact and promoting growth of new shoots. Cutting stems also promotes root growth, which is particularly important in the Himalayan region for land stabilisation.
  • Fabric woven from nettle fibres has a similar appearance to linen, although it is stronger and more lustrous. It is used to create denim-like fabrics, garments and accessories, such as scarves, sleepwear, suiting, shirts and dresses.
  • Nettle fibres are naturally biodegradable and are often blended with other natural fibres, such as cotton and hemp.

KEY PROPERTIES:

  • Anti-Microbial
  • Breathable
  • Elastic
  • Regenerative
  • Strong

INDUSTRY:

  • Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Mass Market

DIVE DEEPER:

  • Nettle has been used as a textile fibre in Europe since the Bronze Age. The industry was largely disrupted by cotton around the 16th century because the material was seen as easier to harvest. Germany used nettle fibre for soldiers' uniforms temporarily during the First World War, due to a shortage of cotton, but the fibre was then largely forgotten about once again.
  • Nettle’s comeback is largely due to the search for alternatives to cotton, which has been labelled as ‘thirsty’ and pesticide-intensive. While recent research has unpicked many of these claims, a broad spectrum of natural materials reduces pressure on single crops, which is beneficial in avoiding monocultures.
  • In certain circumstances and regions, cotton can require large amounts of water and pesticides. By comparison, nettles are wild-grown without the use of chemical fertilisers and many commercial sources are entirely rain-fed.
  • Nettle fibres also have added benefits: they are antibacterial and fire retardant, and have more stretch – with elongation properties of 12-14% compared to cotton’s 8-9%.
  • To produce nettle yarn, the stem is cut and bark removed so that the fibre can be extracted. These fibres are then carded and spun, producing a very strong cord or turned into yarn by mixing with cotton or wool. Thus far, the majority of nettle yarn has been produced by hand.
  • While brands, such as Dezen Dezen have developed 100% nettle products, the fibre does often rely on being mixed with other materials in commercial contexts, as shown by Pangaia and Hiut, which both mix nettle with organic cotton. In Pangaia’s case, a yarn of 50% nettle fibre and 50% cotton fibre is used for the weft, while a 100% cotton yarn is used for the warp.
  • Candiani, the Italian denim manufacturer and supplier to Pangaia and Hiut, says it spends EUR 10 (USD 10.18) per metre for nettle fabric compared to EUR 5.50 (USD 5.60) for other fibres, due to the properties of the denim dictating that it is woven on a shuttle loom, a slower process.
  • As interest develops in the fibre, suppliers are taking care to follow sustainable practices. NFC GmbH Nettle Fibre Company is GOTS-certified, while Himalayan Wild Fibers has developed a proprietary retting process (which softens the fibres) using exclusively GOTS-approved agents.

KEY FACTS:

12-14%

Nettle fibres have more stretch than other fibres – with elongation properties of 12-14%, compared to cotton’s 8-9%.

$10.18

Candiani, the Italian denim manufacturer and supplier to Pangaia and Hiut, says it spends USD 10.18 per metre on nettle fabric.

Key Questions to Ask:

Are you an early adopter?

The reintroduction of nettle fibres into manufacturing systems is in its early stages, so it may take a little more work to find the right supplier, particularly if you want to scale your product. But this will also present opportunities, like finding new, sustainable and innovative blends.

Have you got the right mix?

While nettle will likely be the hero fibre in your product, it’s important you don’t overlook the specifics of any fibres you are blending it with. Using recycled, organic, or fairtrade natural fibres will ensure your product is responsible from top to bottom. And of course, steer clear of synthetics like polyester.

What will scaling nettle fibre look like?

Some manufacturers may be looking for quicker ways to produce nettle thread so that they can scale, which may lead to recreating old mistakes: high energy use, toxic materials, and shipping emissions. See this as an opportunity to reward those with sustainable practices so that the industry remains free of harmful activities.

MEET THE MAKERS:

AltMat

KEY PRODUCTS
AltagHempNettle FibrePaper
LOCATION
Asia

Pyratex

KEY PRODUCTS
BambooLyocellNettle FibrePyratex SeacellSeaweed
LOCATION
Europe, North America

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