Lyocell

Abrasion-ResistantAnti-MicrobialBreathableC-FiberCarbon Zero LyocellCelluloseCompostableHypoallergenicLightweightLyocellNuCyclNullarbor FibreOdour ResistantOrange Fiber & TencelRecyclableStrongTencel LuxeTencel RefibraTextilesViscose

WHAT WE SAY:

Lyocell is soft, breathable and luxurious, yet significantly cheaper than silk and with a sustainable backstory – it is no wonder that fashion brands are embracing this man-made cellulosic fibre.

As ever, not all lyocell is produced equally, so make sure you choose a producer that offers responsible sourcing and fully transparent and traceable supply chains – ideally all powered by renewable energy.

Lyocell clothing label / Source: Shutterstock

WHAT IS LYOCELL?

Lyocell is a semi-synthetic fabric deriving from wood pulp that is increasingly used as a substitute for Cotton and Silk.
A form of Viscose (rayon), lyocell is seen as more environmentally-friendly because it does not use toxic chemicals and more than 99% of the NMMO dissolving agent used to make its pulp, is used repeatedly in a closed-loop system.
Eucalyptus trees are the most common feedstock and are considered highly sustainable because they require no irrigation or pesticides and have a rapid growth cycle of between three to five years.
Lyocell is soft, absorbent, strong and less likely to pill than cotton. Its breathability means that the material does not pick up odours as easily as other materials, so washing can be kept at a minimum. These qualities make it particularly suited to dress shirts, underwear and activewear.
It is the third most produced man-made cellulosic fibre, with an annual production volume of approximately 300,000 tonnes – 0.26% of the overall 109 million tonnes of fibre produced.
Typically, Lyocell comes at a slightly higher price than cotton and viscose.

KEY PROPERTIES:

Abrasion-Resistant
Anti-Microbial
Breathable
Compostable
Hypoallergenic
Lightweight
Odour Resistant
Recyclable
Strong

INDUSTRY:

Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Mass Market

DIVE DEEPER:

First developed in the US, in 1972, by fibre facility American Enka and then commercialised under the brand name Tencel, by British company Courtaulds in the 80s, lyocell has now become used generically to refer to the lycocell process of making cellulosic fibres.
The fabric is considered semi-synthetic because, even though it is made entirely from cellulose derived from trees, it is also processed with N-methyl morpholine-N-oxide (NMMO).
Wood fibres are dissolved into a pulp with NMMO; dried as sheets after processing; broken up and placed in heated vats of amine oxide; filtered and pumped through spinnerets and shaped into long, thin fibres; and then washed, lubricated, crimped, carded and cut before being turned into new products.
Lyocell can be blended with a variety of fibres to achieve different properties including: silk, cotton, linen, nylon, rayon and wool. It can also be created in a range of finishes and for high-volume or low-volume – and more premium – products.
Austria-based Lenzing is the largest producer of lyocell globally. And in March 2022, it opened the world’s largest lyocell plant in Thailand, after a EUR 400 million (USD 399 million) investment. The plant will have an annual output of 100,000 metric tonnes.
Most lyocell is produced in Europe and Asia, with other significant producers including: Aditya Birla, Baoding Swan Fiber, China Populus Textile, Acelon Chemicals & Fiber and Smartfiber.
The lyocell market had an estimated worth of approximately USD 970 million in 2019, with annual growth of around 7% forecast to 2029, driven by increasing demand for sustainable fabrics.
The material has been used by many fashion brands, including global chains, such as Zara, Mango and H&M, as well as indie brands, such as Swedish leisure wear company Hanro and premium brands, such as Guess and Tom Ford. The fibre is also used in other sectors as fabric for medical dressings or speciality papers, for example.
In April 2021, Lenzing released its Carbon Zero Lyocell – a specially-branded lyocell that is certified as carbon neutral in accordance with the CarbonNeutral Protocol. Brands using the fibre include: jeans brand, Jack & Jones, Chinese lingerie brand, Aimer and US home furnishings retailer, West Elm.
Lenzing also produces Tencel Refibra – a lyocell fibre made with 30% recycled content, made up of a mix of pre-consumer waste and up to 10% post-consumer cotton waste. Lenzing has also filed a patent on the recycling of lyocell for use as a raw material for lyocell production.

KEY FACTS:

100,000MT

Austria-based Lenzing, the largest producer of lyocell globally, opened the world’s largest lyocell plant in Thailand that will have an annual output of 100,000 metric tonnes.

$970mn

The lyocell market had an estimated worth of approximately USD 970 million in 2019.

300,000tn

Lyocell is the third most produced man-made cellulosic fibre, with an annual production volume of approximately 300,000 tonnes.

Key Questions to Ask:

Where is your lyocell sourced?

As with all things, due diligence is essential to ensure that the use of lyocell is truly sustainable. Consider where your producer’s wood is sourced and whether it is certified for sustainable practices. The market share of FSC and/or PEFC-certified MMCFs increased to around 55%-60% of all MMCFs in 2020, so it is important to select a responsible producer and many leading producers offer full traceability throughout the supply chain. Similarly, the production of lyocell is energy intensive, so it is important to source from a producer, which uses renewable energy to power its facilities.

How does processing affect recyclability and end-of-life?

While lyocell is biodegradable, dyes and material blends often negatively impact fabrics’ recyclability and/or biodegradability. You should always aim to design products with as few materials as possible or design for easy disassembly. Similarly, educating customers on how best to recycle or dispose of items responsibly should be part of your overall design thinking.

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