Lenzing EcoVero

Lenzing fibres / Source: Lenzing

AfricaAnti-FungalAnti-MicrobialAsiaBreathableCelluloseCompostableEuropeHypoallergenicLenzing EcoVeroLightweightLow-CarbonNorth AmericaOceaniaSouth AmericaTextilesViscose

WHAT WE SAY:

There is viscose and then there is sustainable viscose.

Lenzing, the maker of Ecovero, is in the top 1% of companies that Ecovadis assess globally, so you can be confident that this viscose is as sustainable as any you will find. Made from responsibly sourced wood, using low-impact production methods and fully traceable, it is found in collections from brands, such as Espirit, J Crew, Ganni, Monsoon and Whistles.

Lenzing EcoVero

WHAT IS LENZING ECOVERO?

Lenzing Ecovero is described as the new standard in eco-responsible Viscose, made from certified renewable wood sources, while meeting high environmental standards during production. It boasts high recovery rates of chemicals, the use of environmentally friendly energy sources, the extensive use of waste heat, and the complete treatment and purification of all waste water.
Lenzing Ecovero has racked up a number of environmental certifications to back up its green claims and Lenzing is ranked as the second most sustainable viscose producer in the world by Canopy.
Lenzing Ecovero is used by over 45 brand partners, including major names like Espirit, J Crew, Monsoon, Wagner and Zizzi.

KEY PROPERTIES:

Anti-Fungal
Anti-Microbial
Breathable
Compostable
Hypoallergenic
Lightweight
Low-Carbon

INDUSTRY:

Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Mass Market

DIVE DEEPER:

Viscose is made from wood pulp, which makes it an attractive alternative to synthetic fibres like polyester and other plastics, but harsh chemical processes are sometimes used to turn the wood pulp into fibres. This, along with the energy and water involved in its manufacture, can damage its green credentials.
Lenzing Ecovero aims to square that circle by making its viscose as environmentally sound as possible, from the sustainability of the wood used, to ensuring the product can be disposed of safely at end-of-life.
Lenzing reports that 99% of the wood and dissolving wood pulp it uses is either certified to FSC or PEFC standards or “inspected in line with these standards” (obviously, we would prefer for it all to be actually certified).
Lenzing promises full supply chain transparency via its unique identification system that can trace its fibres used in textile end products.
At Lenzing, Cellulose in wood pulp is converted and matured before the viscose is produced in the sulfidation process step. After further refinement, it is spun and regenerated to make fibres with the necessary qualities for buyers.
One byproduct that is not able to be reused within the process is sodium sulfate. However, it is able to be removed, purified and then converted for use in the detergent, Glass and food industries.
Thanks to the efficiency of its production process, Lenzing Ecovero claims to have up to 50% lower water impact and 50% lower CO2 emissions when compared to generic viscose. These benchmarks, however, are in comparison to those produced by the Higg Materials Sustainability Index, the credibility of which has been called into question in recent months.
Lenzing Ecovero is certified by TÜV Austria Belgium, indicating that its fibres biodegrade within three months in all tested environments (soil, industrial compost, home compost, freshwater and marine environment).

Lenzing clothing / Source: Lenzing & Richard Ramos

Lenzing fibres / Source: Lenzing

KEY FACTS:

1%

Lenzing, the maker of Ecovero, is in the top 1% of companies that Ecovadis assess globally.

50%

Lenzing Ecovero claims to have up to 50% lower water impact and 50% lower CO2 emissions, when compared to generic viscose.

45

Lenzing EcoVero is used by over 45 brand partners, including, major names like Espirit, J Crew, Monsoon, Wagner and Zizzi.

Key Questions to Ask:

Exactly what chemical processes and substances are used in turning cellulose into Ecovero?

Lenzing is not clear about exactly what chemicals it uses to produce Ecovero. With that said, the fibre’s EU Ecolabel certification, as well as Lenzing’s wider reputation for high environmental standards, indicate that this is a relatively low(er) impact viscose fibre.

Do you need the silk-like properties offered by Ecovero or might you be able to choose a more sustainable fabric?

Even in a closed system with the greatest possible efficiencies, the chemicals used to turn cellulose into viscose are hazardous and water treatment requires an input of energy. Would Lyocell or modal – both made by Lenzing – suit your purposes? Could organic Cotton, Hemp or linen give you what you need? And of course, there is always Silk itself. If your customers will have ethical objections to silk, then is it worth keeping an eye on Spiber’s prototype zero-carbon Air Silk or Bolt Threads’ MicroSilk? Neither are widely available yet, but both look like novel bio-fabricated alternatives for the future.

Is Ecovero durable enough for your needs?

Ecovero (or any viscose-based materials) is better suited for delicate, low-intensity garments and certainly not for garments that will be worn intensively. However, like other types of rayon, viscose benefits from being soft and lightweight, but it is not always especially durable. While it is cheaper for customers, viscose can pill, stretch out of shape and disintegrate faster than natural fibres, such as silk. Ultimately, any garment that does not see long-term wear simply is not sustainable.

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