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HeiQ AeoniQ

HeiQ AeoniQ yarn / Source: HeiQ
AlgaeAsiaCelluloseCirculoseElasticEuropeHeiQ AeoniQLow-CarbonNorth AmericaOceaniaRecyclableTextiles

WHAT WE SAY:

Could fashion help solve the climate crisis, rather than exacerbate it? HeiQ AeoniQ is a revolutionary new fibre produced from cellulosic biopolymers found in algae, bacteria or food waste, which capture carbon as they grow.

Designed to replace polyester and nylon, and with support from Hugo Boss and Lycra, this plastic-free, tree-free fibre is one to watch. The bad news? It won’t reach commercial scale until the end of 2024.

HeiQ AeoniQ

WHAT IS HEIQ AEONIQ?

  • HeiQ AeoniQ is a continuous Cellulosic filament yarn designed to compete with synthetic fibres. It is made from cellulosic biopolymers, which bind to carbon in the atmosphere when they grow.
  • These biopolymers can be sourced from Algae, bacteria or food waste, with the closed-loop fibre production process using no toxic chemicals and being powered by renewable energy.
  • The resulting fabric is versatile, comfortable, and can be repeatedly recycled without loss of performance.
  • In early 2022, Hugo Boss and The Lycra Company invested in HeiQ AeoniQ in order to secure early access and distribution rights to the fibre.

KEY PROPERTIES:

  • Elastic
  • Low-Carbon
  • Recyclable

INDUSTRY:

  • Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Partner Trials


DIVE DEEPER:

  • Alternatives to synthetics can often be carbon and energy intensive, but the innovative HeiQ AeoniQ claims to actually be carbon-negative – and not simply by offsetting with carbon credits, but because its cellulosic biopolymers bind to carbon as they grow.
  • HeiQ claims a potential five tonne reduction in CO2 for every tonne of polyester or nylon swapped for the same amount of HeiQ AeoniQ, although this has not been independently confirmed, with the company promising a full LCA once manufacturing is fully scaled.
  • HeiQ’s pilot production plant can produce 100 tonnes per year initially, while the company is planning to invest USD 300 million in its first gigafactory, which will have an annual capacity of 30,000 by the end of 2024.
  • The fabric is designed as a direct replacement for polyester and nylon, with a yarn count of dtex 50-167, filament count of 1-4 dtex, tenacity of 25-40 cN/tex, elongation of 12-20% and shrinkage of less than 5%. It also claims to match the comfort of Cotton, and the smoothness and coolness of Viscose.
  • HeiQ AeoniQ can use conventional industry processing methods and equipment, including standard dyestuffs, standard prints and finishes. It can be texturised, spin dyed (dope dyed) and shaped to functional cross sections.
  • HeiQ describes the fabric as “biodegradable”, though it doesn’t make any claims about its compostability.
  • In October 2021, The Lycra Company made a significant investment to be the exclusive distributor of the HeiQ AeoniQ yarn and also develop the technology for use in textiles. This was followed in February 2022 by a USD five million equity investment from Hugo Boss, with a further USD four million to follow depending on performance milestones. HeiQ claims an implied valuation of the HeiQ AeoniQ IP of USD 200 million.
  • In June 2022, HeiQ formed a strategic partnership with Renewcell to produce HeiQ AeoniQ from the Swedish company’s textile-to-textile recycled Circulose pulp, which is made from 100% textile waste like worn-out jeans and production scraps.
  • HeiQ AeoniQ has been selected by the ISPO Textrends Awards as an outstanding product in the fibres and insulations category.
HeiQ AeoniQ/ Source: HeiQ
HeiQ AeoniQ / Source: HeiQ

KEY FACTS:

30,000tns

HeiQ is planning to invest USD 300 million in its first gigafactory, which will have an annual capacity of 30,000 tonnes by the end of 2024

5%

The fabric is designed as a direct replacement for polyester and nylon, with a shrinkage of less than 5%

$5mn

In February 2022, Hugo Boss made a USD five million equity investment in HeiQ AeoniQ, with a further USD four million to follow depending on performance milestones


Key Questions to Ask:

When will you be able to get access to HeiQ AeoniQ, if at all?

HeiQ AeoniQ is not yet commercially available, and given the company’s deals with Hugo Boss and Lycra, access may be limited even as its production volumes increase. This points to a wider truth – many novel plastic-free fibres won’t come to market in traditional channels, and to gain early access to them, you might have to consider non-traditional commercial strategies such as equity investments.

Will HeiQ AeoniQ be able to reach price parity with polyester?

While brands will often absorb losses on small runs of ‘sustainable’ fabrics, if HeiQ is serious about its fibre being a replacement for polyester, it has to match it on price as well as performance. The company is bullish on its ability to drive down the price of HeiQ AeoniQ as it scales, but even its gigafactory will ‘only’ produce 300,000 tonnes versus 57 million tonnes of polyester.

How will you embrace HeiQ AeoniQ’s circularity?

HeiQ describes HeiQ AenoiQ as 'biodegradable' but doesn’t make any assurances about its safe compostability. Additionally, it claims to be “eternally recyclable” without performance being affected. Given the boldness of this claim – and the intriguing partnership with Renewcell – you should consider the wider circular system that your products exist within, such as a brand-led returns and recycling schemes.

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