Designed to replace polyester and nylon, and with support from Hugo Boss and Lycra, this plastic-free, tree-free fibre is one to watch. The bad news? It won’t reach commercial scale until the end of 2024.
HeiQ is planning to invest USD 300 million in its first gigafactory, which will have an annual capacity of 30,000 tonnes by the end of 2024
The fabric is designed as a direct replacement for polyester and nylon, with a shrinkage of less than 5%
In February 2022, Hugo Boss made a USD five million equity investment in HeiQ AeoniQ, with a further USD four million to follow depending on performance milestones
HeiQ AeoniQ is not yet commercially available, and given the company’s deals with Hugo Boss and Lycra, access may be limited even as its production volumes increase. This points to a wider truth – many novel plastic-free fibres won’t come to market in traditional channels, and to gain early access to them, you might have to consider non-traditional commercial strategies such as equity investments.
While brands will often absorb losses on small runs of ‘sustainable’ fabrics, if HeiQ is serious about its fibre being a replacement for polyester, it has to match it on price as well as performance. The company is bullish on its ability to drive down the price of HeiQ AeoniQ as it scales, but even its gigafactory will ‘only’ produce 300,000 tonnes versus 57 million tonnes of polyester.
HeiQ describes HeiQ AenoiQ as 'biodegradable' but doesn’t make any assurances about its safe compostability. Additionally, it claims to be “eternally recyclable” without performance being affected. Given the boldness of this claim – and the intriguing partnership with Renewcell – you should consider the wider circular system that your products exist within, such as a brand-led returns and recycling schemes.