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Crush

Olive Crush Active in formulation / Source: Full Circle
AfricaAsiaBeautyCrushEuropeNorth AmericaOceaniaOlive Pit PowderSouth AmericaUpcycledVegan

WHAT WE SAY:

We know the oceans are full of plastic, but it is not just about the plastic we can see. Hidden microplastics are invisible to the eye and silently choking our water systems.

While plastic microbeads used as exfoliants have been banned by a number of countries, they’re still in use elsewhere, and tiny nano and microplastic beauty ingredients are even less regulated. Alternatives are desperately needed, especially as the skincare industry booms, which is why Full Circle’s upcycled powder range Crush is more than welcome. Crush can replace plastic-based exfoliants with waterless powders made from waste from the food and drink industry, and can help create a new beauty narrative that’s built on circularity.

Crush

WHAT IS CRUSH?

  • Crush from Full Circle is a range of powdered beauty ingredients derived from the waste and by-products of other industries. They are vegan, 100% natural and plastic-free, and can be used for manual exfoliation, cleansing and skin conditioning.
  • The range uses four base ingredients, each sourced from the food and beverage industry waste streams. Olive Crush uses upcycled Olive Pits, White Rice Crush uses misshapen white rice, Charcoal Crush uses discarded lumpwood, Raspberry Crush uses leftover raspberry seeds, and Blueberry Crush uses leftover blueberry seeds.
  • Raspberry seeds are sourced from the juicing industry – 230 kilograms of juice can be produced from 100,000 raspberries, but 100 kilograms of berry pulp remains. The berry pulp is dried and seeds separated. The dried pulp is sold for processing into nutrients, while the seeds are cold-pressed to extract Full Circle’s Necta. The remaining seedcase is dried and ground to produce Crush products.
  • The charcoal, rice and olive processes vary slightly, but similarly rely on the drying and crushing of the unused, post-processed products. Charcoal uses British charcoal derived from oak fencing offcuts. Unlike some other charcoal powders, Crush is not activated. Regardless of potential benefits, activated charcoal typically uses a higher heat or chemicals to activate it so is a less environmentally friendly process.
  • Four grades of product are available: Active (the smallest), Micro, Small and Large. Active powders are used in skin, hair and makeup formulas; Micro granulate is used for face polishes; Small granulate for facial scrubs; and Large granulate for body scrubs. Not all grades are available for all products.
  • White rice is used as a plastic-free alternative to polyethylene microbeads. Broken, rejected rice is wet-milled and sieved to separate the rice fibre. As a result, some natural husk can remain in the product.
  • Products are manufactured in Belgium, Spain and England, and distributed from Full Circle’s Tunbridge Wells site. Brands currently using Crush powders include Beauty Kubes for its Face Mask and Wildefruit for its Buff + Run Face Polish.

KEY PROPERTIES:

  • Upcycled
  • Vegan

INDUSTRY:

  • Beauty

AVAILABILITY:

Commercially Available

DIVE DEEPER:

  • Food waste is an endemic problem. Up to one-third of food produced for human consumption is wasted globally, and when food waste rots as part of landfill it releases methane – a greenhouse gas with a far greater global warming potential than carbon dioxide.
  • Full Circle is attempting to find a use for otherwise unused produce while simultaneously replacing microplastic-based cosmetic materials. Its Crush range is said to deliver the same levels of efficacy and cosmetic benefits.
  • Olive Crush is a cleansing, oil-absorbent powder that can be used as a base powder for skincare, hair care and make-up. It also comes as an exfoliating ingredient for skincare polishes and cleansers.
  • White Rice Crush is a gentle exfoliating powder that is suitable for talc-free make-up, skincare polishes, and dry shampoos and conditioners. Charcoal Crush is designed for use in face scrubs and polishes, while Raspberry and Blueberry Crush are skin-smoothing scrubs for the face and body.
  • Raspberry and Blueberry Crush are certified COSMOS Natural. Olive, Charcoal, Raspberry and Blueberry are certified natural origin via ISO 16128.
  • At the end of their use, Crush products are washed down the drain with their conduit. As they are 100% bio-based, there are no ill effects from discharge in waterways.
  • Crush packaging varies depending on the product, quantity, and whether it is sourced directly from Full Circle or via a cosmetic ingredients reseller. Paper, plastic bags, and HDPE bottles and containers are all used to ship Crush products. Crush claim all are recyclable and can be disposed of in domestic recycling, however, it is advisable to check with local services. Secondary packaging, postal boxes and packaging paper are recyclable in the paper and card waste streams.
  • The products are available globally, either through the Full Circle online shop for orders under one kilogram, or through cosmetic ingredient resellers. Prices start from GBP 6.95 (USD 8.78) for White Rice Crush to GBP 91.98 (USD 116.25) for Charcoal Crush.
Blueberry Crush / Source: Full Circle
Beauty Kubes using White Rice Crush / Source: Full Circle

KEY FACTS:

230kg

of raspberry juice can be produced from 100,000 raspberries

100%

Crush products are 100% bio-based so there are no ill effects from discharge in waterways

£6.95

Prices start from GBP 6.95 for White Rice Crush to GBP 91.98 for Charcoal Crush

Key Questions to Ask:

Could the process be more efficient?

Full Circle is only able to attain five kilograms of Raspberry Crush from 100 kilograms of leftover berry pulp. While the raspberry skins are sold to the nutritional industry, a relatively low percentage of the original pulp becomes Crush products. Drying processes require energy and it is likely the finished product will add water back into the mix, raising questions as to whether a more efficient process could be sought.

Can you go fully waterless and therefore plastic-free?

Powder-based cosmetic products – that are activated by water at the point of use – are becoming more and more popular. Not only are they lighter to transport and TSA-compliant, they can also be packaged in non water-tight containers, meaning plastic doesn’t have to be the go-to. Discover if Crush can be used as a base and/or active ingredient for powder formulas, and opt for Aluminium tins and bottles for packaging.

Is it cruelty-free?

Datasheets for Crush claim the range is ‘China Approved’. In May 2021, the Chinese government ended its mandatory animal testing for a majority of general cosmetics. The relaxation applies to products such as shampoo, body wash, lipstick and make-up, but it doesn’t include ‘specialist cosmetics’ such as sunscreen, hair dyes and anti-hair loss products. What’s more, a brand must apply to be exempted, and if it fails will still have to pay for animal testing. Crush may fall into the non-testing area, but it will depend on the end use, and brands must determine whether selling into China is the right choice.

MEET THE MAKERS:

Full Circle

KEY PRODUCTS
CrushHempOlive Pit Powder
LOCATION
Europe

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