MATERIAL

Brewed Protein

AsiaBeautyBreathableElasticNorth AmericaRecyclableRegenerativeStrongTextilesWaterproof

The fibre is made through a process of microbial fermentation / Source: Spiber

Last updated: 8 Aug 2024

Inspired by spiders, Spiber's fermented fibres are masterfully brewed by genetically engineered microbes using plant-based sugars.

Commercially Available

Asia | North America

Spun yarn made from Brewed Protein / Source: Spiber

The North Face x Spiber Moon Parka, designed using a molecular design process / Source: Spiber

Shiseido and Spiber collaborated to create a mascara using Brewed Protein for its formulation / Source: Spiber

An animal-free leather alternative / Source: Spiber

Petri-dishes containing Brewed Protein powder and fibres / Source: Spiber

The protein polymer can be used as to create a fur alternative / Source: Spiber

A denim fabric made from Brewed Protein / Source: Spiber

A knitted fabric made from Brewed Protein / Source: Spiber

The raw fibres / Source: Spiber

A Brewed Protein fleece / Source: Spiber

SNAPSHOT

Japanese biotech company Spiber's proprietary technology platform delivers microbially-fermented Brewed Protein, a revolutionary biomaterial made of recombinant spider silk protein. The nutrient-rich polymers can be processed into a variety of formats for wide-ranging textile applications.

PROS

Only requires water, sugar and nutrients

Uses 97% less water than cashmere production

Fibres can be modified to enhance properties

CONS

Uses food crops as feedstocks

Requires land-intensive crops

Higher fossil fuel depletion than wool production

Brewed Protein

Key properties:

Breathable / Elastic / Recyclable / Regenerative / Strong / Waterproof

Common uses:

Beauty / Textiles

LIFE CYCLE

Sourcing

Spiber's founders have studied numerous species of spiders and other silk-producing organisms to build a database of silk varieties.
The company has used genetic information on silk proteins to develop the DNA sequence that codes Brewed Protein, which is not found in nature.
Proteins are the structural building blocks that make biomaterials like skin, nails, and hair.
The company designs and synthesises DNA and amino acid sequences, meaning that its protein polymer can be modified to achieve desired properties.
Spiber currently produces Brewed Protein at its plant in Thailand using polymers sourced from Bonsucro-certified sugarcane.
Its US plant, which is still under construction, will use corn as its feedstock, sourced from certified suppliers using regenerative farming practices such as cover cropping.
Sugarcane and corn are widely available crops that require a large amount of land to grow.
The company is transitioning to regeneratively-grown crops and discarded textiles as future feedstocks to reduce its dependency on sugar.

Production

Using synthetic DNA sequencing, Spiber's specially-designed microbes are deployed to produce Brewed Protein polymers through its proprietary fermentation – or brewing – technology platform.
Brewed Protein fibres are produced by fermenting water, sugar, and nutrients with microbes in Steel tanks. The fermentation process is almost identical to the method used to produce beer.
The polymers are then extracted, purified, and fed through a nozzle to be spun into fibre.
Transforming the polymers into fibres takes place in the company's in-house spinning facility in Tsuruoka, Japan, and at third-party spinning factories.
Spider is developing a process to dye its Brewed Protein polymer solution to offer pre-coloured fibres that can be spun into yarns and fabric without needing a subsequent dyeing process to minimise on water consumption.
According to a critically reviewed LCA, Brewed Protein has a lower impact on climate change, water scarcity, eutrophication, and causes 97% less land-use related harm than cashmere production.
The company is in the process of establishing a second commercial production plant in the US, in partnership with multinational nutrition company ADM.
The production plants in Thailand and the US are strategically located close to agricultural cropland for Brewed Protein's feedstocks.
In September 2023, Spider released its first collection using mass-produced Brewed Protein fibre sold on a commercial scale through four global brands: The North Face, Goldwin, nanamica, and Woolrich.

In Use

Brewed Protein materials can be used for a range of textile applications.
It is available as a filament yarn, staple fibre, spun yarn, knit fabric, woven fabric, denim and fleece. It is also an animal-free Wool, Leather, cashmere and fur alternative.
Brewed Protein is said to have a soft, luxurious feel. The resulting fibre can be tailored to specific strengths and elasticities.
The fibre can be treated with a lamination process to achieve waterproof and breathable properties, as well as offering insulation, for outdoor gear.
Brewed Protein can be spun at 100% content or blended with other natural fibres like cashmere, Cotton, or wool.
The biomaterial can also be finished as a resin or film, and the company is exploring the use of the structural protein as a cosmetic ingredient.
In November 2022, global beauty brand Shiseido released a mascara product using Spider's Brewed Protein fibres.

End of Life

According to Spiber, Brewed Protein fibres and fabrics have been demonstrated to naturally and completely disintegrate in soil.
The fibres will also biodegrade in marine environments.
The company states that "fibres released into the environment through washing or wear and tear will break down into nutrients and return to the biosphere".
Alternatively, Brewed Protein fibres can be broken down into nutrients to be reused.

HOW TO ACTION

1

Explore waste streams

Can you source a regional feedstock derived from agricultural waste to minimise your product's overall impact on the environment? Spiber is exploring the use of sugar from agri-waste to reduce its dependency on corn and sugarcane crops.

2

Go green

Switch to renewable energy sources for your production. Spiber's LCA shows that fossil fuel depletion is higher for Brewed Protein than wool production. Solar and wind-powered facilities are rapidly advancing, so there's no better time to refine your manufacturing model.

3

Prioritise regenerative agriculture

Encourage your farming partners to adopt regenerative farming practices to grow the crops you need. Spiber sees it as its responsibility to ensure its supply chain is rooted in sustainable practices and is working with suppliers who are willing to implement these methods.