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Bananatex

Raw fibres used to create Bananatex / Source: Bananatex
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WHAT WE SAY:

If you’re looking for a novel, strong, durable material for outdoor gear, you could do much worse than Bananatex®.

Created by Swiss bag maker Qwstion, this plant-based fibre is helping to alleviate deforestation, empower local communities and drive fossil fuel-based synthetics out of the outdoor sector – not a moment too soon.

Bananatex

WHAT IS BANANATEX?

  • Bananatex is a highly durable, plant-based fibre made from Abacá banana plants.
  • The Bananatex fibre was launched in 2018 by Swiss bag maker Qwstion, in collaboration with local Abacá farmers in the Philippines, and a yarn specialist and a weaving manufacturer, both based in Taiwan.
  • The fibre was Cradle to Cradle Gold Certified in 2021, and has won a number of other awards including the Green Product Award 2019, the Design Prize Switzerland Award 2019/20 and the German Sustainability Award Design 2021.
  • Qwstion has open-sourced the material – enabling other brands to work with it. In March 2021, H&M released a Bananatex-based shoe in collaboration with British footwear brand Good News – the material has also been used to make furniture.

KEY PROPERTIES:

  • Regenerative
  • Strong
  • Waterproof

INDUSTRY:

  • Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Commercially Available


DIVE DEEPER:

  • Qwstion reports that it chose to create Bananatex from the Abacá banana plants because they aren’t grown in a monocultural agricultural environment, regenerate fully during their annual growing cycle and require no water or pesticides. The plant's hardy qualities have helped it to contribute to reforestation in a region previously eroded from palm plantations.
  • According to the UN’s Global Land Outlook report, a third of the world's land is severely degraded and fertile soil is being lost at a rate of 24 billion tonnes a year, making moves into regenerative farming essential across industries.
  • Due to its rapid growth cycle, Bananatex reports that in one year, a single banana tree can compensate for the CO2 emissions of production and transport of more than 10 bags.
  • The process to create the fibre involves cutting the stalks of the Abacá plant, extracting the fibres before turning them into Paper and then spinning fine strips of it into yarns, weaving into fabric, and coating with a natural beeswax finish and Ruco-Dry Eco Plus water-repellent treatment. This chemical-free process ensures that Bananatex stays fully compostable.
  • The Bananatex material is then yarn dyed to achieve Qwstion’s All Black colourway, a process that uses less water than standard roll dying. The dyeing process is certified by Oeko-Tex Standard 100. To create the brands Natural White colourway, the fibre is left undyed, leaving the final product to reflect the natural fibre colour.
  • In order to make Bananatex waterproof, an all-natural beeswax coating is applied in order to maintain the material’s biodegradability.
The Abacá plant used to create Bananatex / Source: Bananatex
A finished product created with Bananatex / Source: QWSTION Instagram

KEY FACTS:

24bn tns

Fertile soil is being lost at a rate of 24 billion tonnes a year

10 bags

A single banana tree can compensate for the CO2 emissions of production and transport of more than 10 bags


Key Questions to Ask:

Can you absorb Bananatex’s high price, or can you embrace it as a creative challenge?

According to Christian Kaegi, creative director of Qwstion, Bananatex is “massively more expensive” than synthetic alternatives, at around USD 27 per metre versus USD 3-4 per metre for polyester or nylon. However, he says that the brand has used this premium to reimagine how it designs its bags from the ground up, being forced to use significantly less material. 

Can you guarantee that the material’s supply chain is ethical?

Bananatex currently has a reseller between them and the 400 small-scale farmers providing the Abacá for the fibres. While the brand is extremely proactive and transparent, there is always the risk that social and environmental standards will be hard to enforce in such an extended supply chain.

Could you source alternative sources of fibre?

Though part of the banana family, Abacá doesn’t produce an edible fruit, meaning it’s grown purely for its fibre. While the plants have driven the reforestation of the Philippine highlands, it’s also worth considering whether there are any other plant fibres that can be extracted as a by-product of the agriculture industry, and in turn cut down on waste. Check out Circular Systems, a company that is turning agricultural waste into textile fabric.

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