Banana Fibre

Anti-MicrobialAsiaBanana FibreBananatexBeautyBreathableCompostableFire-ResistantFood & BeverageLightweightOceaniaPackagingRecyclableStrongTextiles

WHAT WE SAY:

To truly rid ourselves of our fossil fuel addiction, we need to look to natural materials that are both unknown and underused, investing in their scalability to create a viable alternative to plastic fibres. That's where banana fibre comes in.

Used periodically throughout history — in Japan in the 13th century, and the Philippines before that — banana fibre is a strong and durable material alternative, producing various weights and thicknesses for use in the fashion industry and beyond. However, where it falls short is its time-consuming, preferably manual manufacturing processes, which in turn have inspired low investment and R&D. While scale is currently an issue, a return to slow, considered consumption would allow this fibre to take its rightful place as the regenerative, longstanding, and hardworking fibre that it is.

Dried banana fibre / Source: Shutterstock

WHAT IS BANANA FIBRE?

Banana fibre, also known as musa fibre, is a natural bast fibre that comes from the stems and stalks of banana plants. It comes primarily from Abacá banana plants, which produce non-edible fruit, but all banana plants can produce fibre.
As the fibre comes from banana plants, it grows in hot, humid, tropical climates known for banana production: India, the Philippines, and many Pacific Islands.
When farmers harvest banana fruit, they cut the stalks at the base so new shoots can grow. The stalks, stems (technically pseudo-stems), and leaves are then discarded. The growing period of the shoots is about two years. Abacá plants can reach up to 6.5 metres tall (21 feet), while other species of banana plants can grow up to 12 metres in size (40 feet). It's estimated that 1.5 million tons of dry banana fibre can be harvested annually from this agricultural waste.
Banana fibre is used mainly in textiles: in fashion, for accessories, and as technical textiles. It can also be used by the interiors industry for home furnishings, as well as for paper, food packaging, rope, and twine. Other uses include water purification and mushroom production.
Banana fibre comes in different weights and thicknesses. The innermost stems produce yarn similar to silk, while the outermost stems produce stiff yarn that has been compared to canvas, burlap, and natural bamboo fibre. It dyes well and blends well with other fibres, and is fire resistant, moisture absorbent, durable, lightweight, and has high strength, able to be folded 3,000 times before breaking. 100% banana fibre has been found to work well on jute spinning machinery.
Because banana fibre is a natural product, it is inherently biodegradable, as long as it hasn’t been coated, dyed, sewn, or blended with any synthetic or fossil fuel products.

KEY PROPERTIES:

Anti-Microbial
Breathable
Compostable
Fire-Resistant
Lightweight
Recyclable
Strong

INDUSTRY:

Beauty
Food & Beverage
Packaging
Textiles

AVAILABILITY:

Commercially Available

DIVE DEEPER:

Banana fibre's potential is hindered by the labour-intensive nature of its harvesting. While machines have been used for decortication, the fibre quality produced is low. Good quality banana fibre needs to be harvested and stripped by hand, requiring both time and financial investment.
This investment pays off, though. Banana fibre has high strength and good flexibility, making it a highly durable fibre. Brands committed to creating products that last — a growing demand from consumers and one that can't be overlooked as Extended Producer Responsibility comes into play — will benefit from the fibre's ability to withstand stress and strain. In fact, the fibre is so durable, it's even used to create Japanese Yen banknotes.
Growing banana plants brings environmental benefits too. The plants aren't cultivated in a monocultural agricultural environment, meaning they don't deplete the soil and reduce biodiversity in the region. They regenerate fully during their annual growing cycle and require no water or pesticides to thrive. They've even contributed to reforestation efforts in regions destroyed by palm oil plantations. As the critical state of our soil becomes more well known — it contains 23 times more plastic than the oceans, and according to the UN we're losing 24 billion tonnes of fertile soil a year — regenerative fibres will become imperative to survival.
At present, a handful of companies are paving the way for banana fibre use. Bananatex® from Qwstion is an open-source technical fabric made from 100% banana fibre. It can be used both uncoated and coated, with the latter seeing a natural beeswax applied for waterproofing properties. It has won multiple design awards and is Cradle to Cradle Gold Certified.
Green Banana Paper, from Kosrae Island in the Federated States of Micronesia, uses banana plant waste found on the island to create handmade wallets and paper, while women’s fashion brand Valani, from Chicago, produces a line of banana fibre garments that are either 100% banana or blended with Hemp and Tencel.
Otherwise from Portugal offers a range of shirts made from a Linen and banana fibre blend, while Costa Rican brand Cade Coast makes 100% banana fibre clothing. Japanese denim maker Japan Blue Jeans crafts denim jeans from a Cotton and banana blend. The potential for banana fibre in fashion is vast.
Research into the potential use of banana fibre in sanitary care is also emerging. A study in India found that menstruation pads made from banana fibre offered promising results as a reusable, alternative solution to plastic-based period products. A university student in Brazil, meanwhile, has developed a disposable and compostable tampon made from banana fibre. The product was designed for homeless women, and the student, Rafaella de Bona Gonçalves, won a 2019 German iF Design Talent Award. 200,000 metric tons of sanitary waste is created each year, most of which is made from fossil fuels. Could banana fibre offer those who menstruate a natural, healthier alternative?
Finally, banana fibre also has the potential to replace plastic films. A study in China extracted Cellulose from the fibre and combined it with an ionic liquid to create a translucent cellulose film that naturally biodegrades and improves food preservation.

KEY FACTS:

^ 12m

Abacá plants can reach up to 6.5 metres tall, while other species of banana plants can grow up to 12 metres in length

1.5mn tns

It's estimated that 1.5 million tons of dry banana fibre can be harvested annually from agricultural waste

3,000x

Banana fibre can be folded 3,000 times before breaking

Key Questions to Ask:

Are you looking for an immediate solution?

A scaled and consistent supply chain for banana fibre still needs development, meaning brands looking to work with the material should consider investing in the fibre beyond just a few metres of fabric in order to support the industry's growth. The non-monoculture growing habits of the plant must be respected when scaling this fibre, meaning mass scale production is off the table — for now.

Have you considered the end-of-life of your product?

While banana fibre is technically both recyclable and biodegradable — when in its raw form — these two end-of-life scenarios won't be available to all customers. Recycling requires the right infrastructure to be in place to effectively break apart and redistribute resources. Considering that less than 1% of fashion currently gets effectively recycled into new garments, the likelihood of a little known fibre such as banana being recycled is close to none. Its biodegradability can also be called into question, especially as most brands using banana fibre are likely to coat it or blend it with other, likely non-biodegradable materials. To help solve both of these issues, designers should prioritise mono-material design, while also developing take-back schemes to ensure the safe return and reuse of this natural resource.

What blends are best?

Not all products can be mono-material, so it's important to carefully consider any other fibres you choose to blend with banana fibre to get the properties you need. It blends well with other natural fibres such as Hemp, linen, cotton and jute — but as soon as you add an ounce of polyester or elastane into the mix, the garment is destined for landfill.

Are you invested in social sustainability practices?

Investing in banana fibre isn't just the right choice for the planet, it's a good choice for people too. Many of the communities living in and around banana trees are farming communities, with limited income and ability to scale, despite the fact they're surrounded by raw banana leaves that could deliver a steady income stream. Working with these communities to develop sustainable and regenerative harvesting and manufacturing practices would not only provide much-needed support, but make your brand stand apart from the rest.