Anya Hindmarch: RTN

Return to Nature range in Honey / Source: Anya Hindmarch

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4 MINUTE READ

Mayer Nissim

WHAT WE SAY:

A bag for life is one thing, but what happens when that life comes to an end?

This collection from luxury fashion designer Anya Hindmarch makes a powerful statement about where forward-thinking designers need to focus – it is no longer enough to just create something beautiful, instead you should design something that will also disappear beautifully (or at least without leaving a negative impact). Designing for the end has long been ignored, but that itself has to end.

KEY FACTS:

Anya Hindmarch has launched the Return to Nature collection of innovative Leather handbags that are fully compostable when they reach end-of-life.
The leather used in the bag has been produced in partnership with Dutch firm Nera Tanning and German leather producer Richard Hoffmans.
As well as the specially tanned compostable leather, the bag fastens without any metal fixings or other hardware, so as not to compromise its biodegradability.
The Anya Hindmarch Return to Nature collection features seven styles of bags in four shades and is widely available online and in-store.

Return to Nature Clutch in Tan / Source: Anya Hindmarch

Return to Nature Cross-body in Cigar / Source: Anya Hindmarch

DIVE DEEPER:

Leather is a natural substance that should theoretically break down harmlessly at the end of its usable life, but conventional tanning processes introduce harmful chemicals like chrome that hinder safe composting.
Made in collaboration with several global partners, the Return to Nature collection from designer Anya Hindmarch uses the Zeology tanning agent to create chrome, heavy-metal and aldehyde-free leather that will compost under the right conditions.
Indeed, the designer reports that composting trials showed 20% stronger plant growth from the leather versus the control compost, meaning that the nutrients in the leather actually nourish the soil.
Anya Hindmarch sources animal skins from Scan-Hide Swedish farms, which guarantees full traceability from farm to finished products and high standards of animal welfare.
The leather’s biodegradability has been formally tested under BS EN ISO 20136:2020 and BS EN ISO 20200:2015, and found to have a relative biodegradability of 89.2%, approaching untreated collagen’s 100%. Furthermore, 100% of the sample was found to disintegrate after 45 days in heated conditions.
German tannery Richard Hoffmans coats the bags’ leather with Activated Silk Technology, from Evolved By Nature, for a truly compostable bag that degrades only 10% slower than untanned animal skin.
The Return to Nature line is available in Dark Olive, Tan, Cigar, and Honey colours and features a Phone Pouch (USD 395), a Cross Body (USD 650 and USD 950), a Bucket Bag in three sizes (USD 895, USD 1,095, and USD 1,395) and Tote Bag in two sizes (USD 1,250 and USD 1,450).
GBP 10 (USD 12.50) from every purchase is donated to Dirt, a charitable foundation from environmentalist and sustainability consultant Arizona Muse, who inspired the collection. Dirt supports several global projects that seek to regenerate the soil through the Biodynamic Farming movement.

"After all the work on ‘I am a Plastic Bag’ - trying to save things going into landfill - it made me wonder if I could design a bag that would never need landfill?"

Anya Hindmarch

Key Design Considerations:

Could you apply some of these principles to more mass market products?

Anya Hindmarch spent over two years researching how to create an authentically compostable bag. But a USD 1,000 price tag gives you the ability to work with high-end suppliers, who can go the extra mile. However, the collection is both symbolic and instructional – for example, the elimination of non-compostable hardware is a design decision that does not require premium materials.

Could animal-free leather be an option?

While the argument that leather is a by-product of the meat industry is a valid one today, no designer can ignore the fact that many consumers prefer to avoid animal-based products, even if that has led to much greenwashing. However, there are an increasing number of viable non-animal, non-plastic leather alternatives, such as Natural Fibre Welding’s Mirum, which is made from renewable plant sources that you could consider.

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Anya Hindmarch: RTN

WHAT WE SAY:

A bag for life is one thing, but what happens when that life comes to an end?

KEY FACTS:

DIVE DEEPER:

Leather is a natural substance that should theoretically break down harmlessly at the end of its usable life, but conventional tanning processes introduce harmful chemicals like chrome that hinder safe composting.

Made in collaboration with several global partners, the Return to Nature collection from designer Anya Hindmarch uses the Zeology tanning agent to create chrome, heavy-metal and aldehyde-free leather that will compost under the right conditions.

Indeed, the designer reports that composting trials showed 20% stronger plant growth from the leather versus the control compost, meaning that the nutrients in the leather actually nourish the soil.

Anya Hindmarch sources animal skins from Scan-Hide Swedish farms, which guarantees full traceability from farm to finished products and high standards of animal welfare.

German tannery Richard Hoffmans coats the bags’ leather with Activated Silk Technology, from Evolved By Nature, for a truly compostable bag that degrades only 10% slower than untanned animal skin.

The Return to Nature line is available in Dark Olive, Tan, Cigar, and Honey colours and features a Phone Pouch (USD 395), a Cross Body (USD 650 and USD 950), a Bucket Bag in three sizes (USD 895, USD 1,095, and USD 1,395) and Tote Bag in two sizes (USD 1,250 and USD 1,450).

GBP 10 (USD 12.50) from every purchase is donated to Dirt, a charitable foundation from environmentalist and sustainability consultant Arizona Muse, who inspired the collection. Dirt supports several global projects that seek to regenerate the soil through the Biodynamic Farming movement.

Anya Hindmarch

Key Design Considerations:

Could you apply some of these principles to more mass market products?

Could animal-free leather be an option?

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