Here, Patagonia is attempting to show that cotton farming can have a positive impact on both the environment – by sequestering carbon with good soil care – and on the farmers – by improving economic resilience. Given all the controversy and misinformation related to cotton, we hope it ushers in a new era where natural fibres are the only sustainable and fair option.
Forget the misinformation about water use. Organic cotton can be more land intensive than genetically modified cotton. Currently, around 1% of cotton grown globally is organic. Were this to drastically rise, a large amount of land may be necessary, potentially reducing biodiversity or the ability to grow other crops. That said, GM crops are an anathema to many consumers and have limited regulatory approval, so GM-free organic is likely the present and future of sustainable clothing.
While we love the ‘regenerative’ vision, our fear is that the costs involved and the resulting price premium means it could easily become a virtue-signalling label for the few, rather than the systemic change for the many that we so desperately need.
Furthermore, too many brands seem to believe that ‘organic cotton’ is de facto more sustainable than cotton without this label. First, organic cotton is facing huge accusations of fraud; second, there are uncertified producers making cotton that is far more sustainable than the vast majority of organic cotton (for example, Good Earth Cotton). It is far better to work with a producer who you trust, rather than rely on opaque arm's-length certifications.