NuDown

NuTech air insulation keeps wearers warm or cool during outdoor pursuits / Source: NuDown

BambooNorth AmericaTextiles

5 MINUTE READ

Deborah Williams

WHAT WE SAY:

Using air as an insulator is an ingenious innovation, especially when the textiles industry is still so heavily dependent on down and synthetic alternatives.

Where conventional outerwear uses layers of material, Nudown's NuTech insulation pumps air into apparel to regulate temperature. The brand's claim that "the most revolutionary ideas are often the most simple" couldn't ring more true, and while it's a shame this innovation is currently being used for nylon-based jackets, its potential is far reaching.

KEY FACTS:

NuDown is a US outerwear brand headquartered at the base of the Sierra Nevada mountains, in Reno, Nevada. According to the company, NuDown is the only outerwear brand using compressed air as insulation.
With its patented NuTech inflation technology, the company uses air — "one of the most abundant natural resources to keep us warm or cool" — in place of traditional down as a fully adjustable insulation material.
The technology pumps natural air into dynamic laminated chambers housed inside the garment, and allows NuDown wearers to personalise their temperature using an in-pocket hand pump, providing a temperature variation of up to 40 degrees Fahrenheit. If conditions change, the wearer can either release air to cool down or pump more air into the jacket for additional warmth.
NuDown garments are made from a combination of Polartec NeoShell (weather protection fabric), Polartec Wind Pro (breathable fleece) and PrimaLoft GOLD (microfibre insulation). The linings are breathable and ultra-wicking, with some made from Bamboo charcoal for breathability and odour control.
The apparel is embedded with RECCO's active detection technology to make wearers searchable by rescue professionals in the event of an avalanche or accident.
In 2015, NuDown became retail ready with its autumn collection, consisting of six premium technical jackets in vest and parka styles.
Available in both men's and women's styles, NuDown garments can be purchased via its online store, retailing from USD 180 to USD 500, and at select specialty retailers at higher price points (USD 230 to USD 1,000).

NuDown's on-demand, pocket-sized hand pump / Source: NuDown

NuDown outerwear is designed to be worn for all seasons / Source: NuDown

DIVE DEEPER:

Usually made from duck or goose feathers, down has been used for centuries for insulation and is the most popular natural insulator for the textiles industry.
According to Textile Exchange, down is often referred to as a "by-product of waterfowl raised for meat". However, it explains that although it's ideal for feathers to only be plucked from birds after slaughter, many animal rights activists have exposed the practice of suppliers live-plucking to produce more than one harvest of down from a single bird. Other concerns include speculation that down feathers may also come from birds that have been force-fed for foie gras.
The Responsible Down Standard (RDS) is working to ensure that down is certified – meaning it's sourced from animals that have not been subjected to any unnecessary harm.
NuDown, however, was founded on the belief that through technology it can offer the world a "clean, efficient and unquestionably ethical alternative to the harsh realities of the down industry".
As well as being environmentally friendly and cruelty free, the advantages of using air include maintaining thermal properties, not losing loft or warmth when wet, and being pure and limitless. According to the brand, 5 pumps of air delivers insulation for normal activity on slightly chilly days, 10 pumps will protect the wearer in harsher conditions, while 15 to 20 pumps is suitable for freezing temperatures.
Prior to their initial release in 2015, NuDown jackets and vests were tested at the Institute for Environmental Research at Kansas State University – a renowned thermal research facility. The garments were awarded the best CLO (Clothing Insulation Value) warmth-to-weight ratio, in comparison to similar fit and function down jackets and vests.
NuDown was founded in 2013 by entrepreneur Jeff Pickett following his acquisition of the apparel side of Klymit, a Utah-based outdoor equipment and apparel maker. The brand's CEO, Robert Hall, is a 40-year veteran of ski and outdoor sports.
The company has collaborated with a number of experts in the outdoor and apparel industries, including Julie Ringler and Kimi Davies-Rice, who were both apparel designers at Patagonia. NuDown products have also been tested and worn by Olympians and sponsored athletes.

“NuDown is changing the way consumers think about insulation. Our patented NuTech inflation technology gives outdoor devotees the ability to control their body climate... This is on-the-go flexibility, setting a new industry standard.”

Bob Hall – CEO, NuDown

Key Design Considerations:

Air could be the future of outerwear insulation

NuDown’s NuTech inflation technology proves that natural insulation doesn’t require the use of animal-derived materials. However, the constant hand-pumping of air into the jacket could seem like a gimmick and deter some potential customers. But the positive, long-term impact the transition from down to air could have on the circular economy far outweighs the small, short-term inconveniences, so don't be afraid to be playful with branding to maximise your commercial appeal. Take inspiration from NuDown, which is striving to "blow away" the outerwear industry.

Take the plastic out of outerwear

The outerwear industry is heavy on plastic due to its performance properties. But just as NuDown has found a new way to insulate, could you do the same for the materials used to house it? For inspiration, look to companies like Mover, with innovations including Qwstion + Mover Hip Pack, made from Bananatex (abacá fibre), and Mover x Ventile's jacket and blouson range.

A great brand tells a great story

If you’re an outerwear designer, consider the ways you could set your product apart and tell a tale that captures your audience's passion. For example, the founder of Pakafill tested his insulation material on an expedition in the Andes Mountains, which will certainly garner interest among thrill-seeking adventurers who will be swayed into investing in the brand. NuDown has been tested and worn by "world-class olympians", so it would be fascinating to know how the insulation performed by weaving their experiences into the brand's identity, which could justify its price tag to potential customers.