MCQ x Mirum

Two of ten MQC alt-leather jackets made from Mirum / Source: Dezeen

LeatherMirumTextiles

5 MINUTE READ

Sophie Benson

WHAT WE SAY:

The limited edition collaboration between MCQ and Natural Fiber Welding is a stunning fusion of material science, scent and art – showing that the sustainable side of fashion does not have to be boring or beige.

However, we were disappointed to see the use of paints and markers, which negate the Mirum’s natural, nutrient-based circularity. These limited edition jackets are not likely to be thrown in the trash, but we would expect such an important detail to be taken into account by any designer considering a commercial roll out of such an exciting new material.

KEY FACTS:

MCQ, an Alexander McQueen sub-brand, created a limited edition 10-piece jacket collection using Mirum, a plastic-free alt-leather material.
Mirum is made entirely from plants and minerals, and unlike many other alt-leather substitutes is not bound or coated with plastic or any petrochemical derived products, making it a naturally circular nutrient material.
Each jacket was infused with an earthy scent by mixing essential oils in with the other ingredients, which are dry mixed and mechanically formed.
The jackets were hand painted by artist Kevin Emerson as part of the brand’s Grow Up collection, which explored pandemic-related themes of self-sufficiency and home gardening.

The rice hulls create a speckled effect in the final material / Source: Dezeen

Artist Kevin Emerson customising one of the jackets / Source: Kevin Emerson and Casilda García López

DIVE DEEPER:

Approximately 1.4 billion hides and skins of animals were used in global leather production in 2020. Cattle are the species responsible for 65% of the livestock sector's emissions, which account for 14.5% of all GHG emissions.
Cattle ranching is the leading cause of deforestation in “virtually every Amazon country,” contributing to as much as 80%. Such deforestation accounts for almost 2% of global CO2 emissions annually, equivalent to the emissions from all airplane flights globally.
90% of leather is tanned using chrome. When not managed correctly, it can erode soil, pollute water and cause skin reactions, digestive problems, kidney and liver damage, cancer, and reproductive issues. It can also develop into the hazardous substance chromium VI.
Many leather alternatives are manufactured from plastic - commonly PU and PVC - and often bio-based solutions, such as cork or Pinatex also rely upon a layer, coating or binding of plastic for durability.
Mirum, made by Natural Fiber Welding, is never coated in PU or PVC and the first commercially available collection of Mirum received the USDA 100% bio-based product certification.
Although Mirum is usually embossed for a leather-like texture and appearance, MCQ chose a smooth finish to show off the mix of materials and the granular properties provided by the addition of rice hulls.
The custom manufacturing process is what allowed for a scent to be added, which will remain for approximately one year.
Mirum reports that its CO2 footprint is approximately three to 10 times lower than alternative materials, due to its natural inputs and waterless, dye and tanning-free production.
MCQ’s use of Mirum was not commercialised and the 10-piece collection was gifted to friends and family of the brand.
Mirum is commercially available and can be manufactured using different ingredients according to the desired function, finish and texture.
While this was the first time the material was featured in garments, Natural Fiber Welding has previously collaborated with brands, such as Camper, Pangaia, Bellroy and H&M.
Natural Fiber Welding has raised over USD 150 million – including USD 85 million in April 2022 – from investors, including BMW i Ventures, Allbirds, Ralph Lauren; as well as striking partnerships with Patagonia and Richemont.
In 2021, Natural Fiber Welding extended its Mirum production space by 110,000 square feet, with the goal of producing tens of millions of square feet of material every year.

"They [MCQ] didn't want something that looked like leather. It didn't need to have the typical animal grain. They loved this idea of showing off natural materials and this additional granularity that you get by seeing the rice hulls."

Oihana Elizalde - Vice President, Natural Fiber Welding - as quoted in Dezeen

Key Design Considerations:

Be creative with material properties

The MCQ jackets did not try and perfectly replicate leather, instead they embraced Mirum’s rice hull origins with their unique texture. Even more than this, the brand embedded a woodsy scent to reflect the collection’s emphasis on pandemic-inspired home gardening. When choosing plastic-free materials, could you also embed similarly creative features in your products?

Design for circularity

A product is only as circular as its weakest link. While nutrient-based Mirum is fully circular, finishing it with paints and markers meant that the jackets cannot be guaranteed not to pollute the environment. Consider how you can use naturally circular materials throughout the entirety of your product.

Being a Mirum first

The MCQ jackets were the first time Mirum had been made into garments, having previously been used in bags, wallets and shoes. While the company is currently reporting extensive waiting lists for Mirum, it has explored creative applications that showcase the material’s potential.

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE:

Camper Runner K21 Mirum

The first sneaker with a plastic-free, nutrient leather upper

100% bio-based, ‘nutrient leather’ accessories made from Mirum

Mirum

MATERIAL

A fully circular, 100% plant leather made from nutrients, which returns to the earth as nutrients.

5 Things to Know About Alt Leather

MCQ x Mirum

WHAT WE SAY:

The limited edition collaboration between MCQ and Natural Fiber Welding is a stunning fusion of material science, scent and art – showing that the sustainable side of fashion does not have to be boring or beige.

KEY FACTS:

DIVE DEEPER:

Approximately 1.4 billion hides and skins of animals were used in global leather production in 2020. Cattle are the species responsible for 65% of the livestock sector's emissions, which account for 14.5% of all GHG emissions.

Cattle ranching is the leading cause of deforestation in “virtually every Amazon country,” contributing to as much as 80%. Such deforestation accounts for almost 2% of global CO2 emissions annually, equivalent to the emissions from all airplane flights globally.

90% of leather is tanned using chrome. When not managed correctly, it can erode soil, pollute water and cause skin reactions, digestive problems, kidney and liver damage, cancer, and reproductive issues. It can also develop into the hazardous substance chromium VI.

Many leather alternatives are manufactured from plastic - commonly PU and PVC - and often bio-based solutions, such as cork or Pinatex also rely upon a layer, coating or binding of plastic for durability.

Mirum, made by Natural Fiber Welding, is never coated in PU or PVC and the first commercially available collection of Mirum received the USDA 100% bio-based product certification.

Although Mirum is usually embossed for a leather-like texture and appearance, MCQ chose a smooth finish to show off the mix of materials and the granular properties provided by the addition of rice hulls.

The custom manufacturing process is what allowed for a scent to be added, which will remain for approximately one year.

Mirum reports that its CO2 footprint is approximately three to 10 times lower than alternative materials, due to its natural inputs and waterless, dye and tanning-free production.

MCQ’s use of Mirum was not commercialised and the 10-piece collection was gifted to friends and family of the brand.

Mirum is commercially available and can be manufactured using different ingredients according to the desired function, finish and texture.

While this was the first time the material was featured in garments, Natural Fiber Welding has previously collaborated with brands, such as Camper, Pangaia, Bellroy and H&M.

Natural Fiber Welding has raised over USD 150 million – including USD 85 million in April 2022 – from investors, including BMW i Ventures, Allbirds, Ralph Lauren; as well as striking partnerships with Patagonia and Richemont.

In 2021, Natural Fiber Welding extended its Mirum production space by 110,000 square feet, with the goal of producing tens of millions of square feet of material every year.

Oihana Elizalde - Vice President, Natural Fiber Welding - as quoted in Dezeen

Key Design Considerations:

Be creative with material properties

Design for circularity

Being a Mirum first

YOU MIGHT ALSO LIKE: