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Ganni EcoVero range

Printed Crepe V-Neck Gathered Blouse in Margarita / Source: Ganni
AsiaCelluloseEuropeNorth AmericaOceaniaSilkTextilesViscose
3 MINUTE READ

Mayer Nissim

WHAT WE SAY:

We love so much about Ganni  from its transparency around its sustainability journey, to its multiple experiments around rental and resale systems change.

But this collection leaves us with mixed feelings – just as the brand has mixed Lenzing’s Ecovero with the more opaque ‘responsible viscose.’ Let us hope the next iteration will be 100% Ecovero.


KEY FACTS:

  • Ganni’s S/S 22 Ecovero range is a six-piece collection of ready-to-wear items, including hair scrunchies, blouses and dresses, made with a blend of 50% Lenzing’s Ecovero and 50% ‘responsible viscose.’
  • EcoVero is described as the new standard in eco-responsible Viscose, made by Lenzing from responsibly sourced wood pulp, accompanied by an EU Ecolabel and with its biodegradability certified by TÜV Austria Belgium.
  • The current Ganni Ecovero range is available globally in-store and online, with prices ranging from USD 30 for the scrunchies to USD 325 for certain dresses.
Long O-Neck Shirt in Bright Marigo / Source: Ganni
Printed Crepe Scrunchie collection / Source: Ganni

DIVE DEEPER:

  • Viscose is the most popular man-made cellulosic fibre, with a global production volume of approximately 5.2 million tons.
  • Viscose has a long history as being a cheaper alternative to Silk. And while undoubtedly better than non-renewable synthetics, such as polyester and nylon, this semi-synthetic fibre is not without its own environmental issues.
  • Viscose is made from wood pulp, which can lead to issues with deforestation and harsh chemicals are necessary to turn the pulp into soluble Cellulose, so it can be turned into fibres.
  • In 2021, Lenzing was rated as the world’s second most environmentally-friendly viscose producer in Canopy’s Hot Button rankings.
  • All items in the Ganni Ecovero range are made from 50% Lenzing Ecovero viscose and 50% “responsible viscose,” and all are manufactured in China.
  • In Ganni’s 2021 Responsibility Report, the brand reported that its use of viscose was falling, with the material now only making up a "small percentage" of its overall material footprint, down from 20% in previous years. It has committed to using only 'responsible viscose,' such as Ecovero and other unbranded, but FSC-certified, viscose fibres.

"Ecovero is described as the new standard in eco-responsible viscose, made by Lenzing from responsibly sourced wood pulp, accompanied by an EU Ecolabel and with its biodegradability certified by TÜV Austria Belgium."


Key Design Considerations:

Why is only half the product made from Lenzing Ecovero?

The remaining 50% is made from what is billed as ‘responsible viscose’ – but responsibility is at the core of the Lenzing Ecovero product. We assume this is to keep costs down, but the lack of transparency makes it impossible to understand if the other viscose is sourced from endangered forests and/or with low impact production methods.

Does blending Lenzing Ecovero with other sources of viscose affect the end product’s supply chain transparency?

We love Lenzing’s ability to trace its fibres in textile end products, as a way of building trust with consumers. However, if the fibres are blended with alternative sources of viscose, does this negate this traceability?

Consider more than just the material

The Ganni Ecovero range is manufactured in China, which is not unusual – in 2020, China accounted for 43.5% of the global textile export value. However, despite improvements in wages and environmental standards in recent years, there are still concerns about cheap labor and compliance in the country’s fashion sector. In 2021, Ganni started participating in The Open Apparel Registry, listing its Stage one and two suppliers on the open source database. Consider how you can give customers confidence that your supply chain is both environmentally and ethically-sound.

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