Exponent

The four parts of the Exponent system / Source: Exponent

AluminiumBeautyGlassNorth AmericaPackagingRubber

4 MINUTE READ

Sophie Benson

WHAT WE SAY:

Exponent’s refillable, self-activated, precision-dose skincare takes aim at product and packaging beauty waste.

Some estimates place product waste at between 20 and 40%, so a mix-your-own system seems like the answer we have all been waiting for. There is no doubt this hands-on approach to skincare will push the needle towards a slower, more considered form of beauty consumption. But it comes with a hefty price tag.

KEY FACTS:

Exponent’s skincare system is designed to cut out packaging and product waste. Refillable active powdered ingredients are blended with a Quadruple Hyaluronic Acid Hydrator, in a reusable self-activator device, delivering a precise, single dose of activated skincare with a simple push. The finished product is a freshly-whipped serum with a light gel-cream texture.
To prevent oxidation and degradation, mixable active ingredients are packaged in Glass jars with Aluminium lids. The reusable activator is designed for the long-term, but a take-back scheme ensures nothing goes to waste.
A subscription service removes the need to make multiple refill orders, offering the all-important convenience factor - a major consumer driver when behaviour change is the goal.

An active powder and hyaluronic acid are mixed just before use for peak potency / Source: Exponent

Pure active powder refills (L-R): Calm Revival Green Tea Resveratrol, Firming Filter CoQ10 and Clear Comeback Probiotic Enzyme / Source: Exponent

DIVE DEEPER:

Beauty expiry dates can span anywhere between three months and two years, but Exponent claims that active ingredients actually degrade by 40% within just eight weeks on average.
By separating active ingredients until the moment of use, Exponent delivers skincare at peak potency. Factor in the refillable, recyclable containers and the system takes waste out of the equation.
Users mix a pure active powder, such as vitamin c or green tea resveratrol, with a hyaluronic acid hydrator using the reusable, refillable self-activator. A push mechanism releases a single dose of ‘superior serum,’ which is mixed with the powder by hand in the integrated dish, before being applied to the face and neck.
A starter kit, which includes a refillable activator, a hyaluronic acid hydrator and an active powder refill costs USD 168. Individual powder refills are USD 88 and provide 45 doses, while acid refills are USD 68 and provide 90 doses. Shoppers can save 10% with a subscription delivery every 35 days or 80 days, but it is a significant outlay given the average woman spends USD 313 per month on all beauty products.
While the globe, which sits on top of the activator, is made from glass, the company does not specify what other materials the rinseable device, comprising 19 pieces, is made from. However, it offers a take-back scheme for all activators once they are retired from use, so it can “properly recycle” them.
All active powders can be combined with the hydrator, allowing for customised morning and night routines, but Exponent recommends a new globe and dispenser for each powder, offering them on a complimentary basis. This necessitates the manufacture, use and storage of more components, a digression from the streamlined appeal of this all-in-one system.
Founder Liz Whitman, former President and CMO of The Red Door by Elizabeth Arden, said in a release, "Our mission at Exponent is to raise the bar for effective skincare...because skincare shouldn't be pre-mixed, watered down or bottled up.”
Exponent products are currently available on a D2C basis in the US, including Hawaii and Alaska. Its backers include: Founders Fund, Unilever Ventures, SugarCap, Flybridge Capital and Bullish, who own or back other brands, such as The Inkey List, Starface and Harry’s, suggesting the scope for global scaling and distribution.
All products within the Exponent range are cruelty-free and vegan. The company is a Certified B Corp.

"The packaging development was complex in function already and then our commitment to a sustainable, refillable design that eradicates plastic waste, made it that much more complex."

Liz Whitman - Founder and CEO, Exponent - as quoted in New Beauty

Key Design Considerations:

A premium price point

Initial investment costs are high. Consider whether you could make self-mixing more financially accessible with simpler tools, such as a glass bowl or formulations with a higher concentration, which provide more doses per purchase.

Plastic-free systems change

The Self Activator is not explicitly plastic-free, rather its long-term use is designed to reduce single-use plastic packaging waste. Could you explore cellulosic, Rubber, metal or glass alternatives and offer your customer a holistically plastic-free product?

Retail presence is key

Could a retail presence extend your reach to a new audience? Investigate the possibility of customised treatments, consultations and in-store product refills, which would in turn further reduce your waste and materials footprint.

Consider the likelihood of refill and recycle

Choose your refill packaging wisely, taking into account the impact of manufacturing, the frequency of refills needed, the likelihood of reuse and consumer access to recycling facilities. A prefill solution in chain supermarkets might be a more suitable option for mass market brands.

Encapsulation may be a better alternative

Single-dose systems that require a certain level of labour on the behalf of the consumer are not a viable option for those that are time and space poor. Consider the encapsulation route for monodose beauty too, giving consumers on-the-go and small-scale solutions.