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Aizome Wastecare

The serum comes with a pipette to pull up product from the vial / Source: Aizome
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7 MINUTE READ

Yasmin Ahmed

WHAT WE SAY:

The last source the beauty industry would turn to for therapeutic skincare ingredients is industrial waste, right? Well, one textile startup is on a mission to prove that its own waste can make your skin look and feel better.

Textile startup AIZOME isn't playing when it says that "even our waste is good for you". To prove just how clean its state-of-the-art ultrasonic dyeing method is, Aizome has created the world's first skincare product made from industrial waste. Bottling up its own factory wastewater, the medicinal night serum – dubbed WASTECARE™ – has not only passed rigorous cosmetic safety standards with flying colours, but it offers a range of health benefits too, thanks to indigo's impressive healing qualities. Although Wastecare is not a consumer product (yet), Aizome's thought-provoking concept is radically redefining waste.


KEY FACTS:

  • Japanese-German startup Aizome Textiles has partnered with creative agency Serviceplan Innovation to unveil Wastecare, a night serum made from the company's industrial wastewater.
  • The campaign was launched on 22 April 2023 to coincide with World Earth Day, and was designed to prove the safety claims of the brand's fabric dyeing process. 
  • Wastecare consists of wastewater derived from the startup's patent-pending dyeing method, Aizome Ultra, which only requires untreated plants, water, and high-frequency sound waves to dye fabric.
  • The process works by using ultrasound technology to create cavities in the dye mixture, allowing it to penetrate and bind to textile fibres without the need for chemicals or toxic substances. The method infuses the fabric with both the plant's pigments as well as its bioactive and medicinal ingredients.
  • Speaking to PlasticFree, Shruthi Subramanian from Serviceplan Innovation stated that the serum itself is "just suspended indigo leaves in water". A natural stabiliser, such as citric acid, is added to give the organic substance a longer shelf life.
  • The serum offers natural antibacterial, pain-relieving, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and hydrating skincare properties. Aizome's co-founder and CEO, Michel May, says that this "shouldn't surprise anyone" since indigo was widely used by ancient civilisations for its wound-healing properties. Wastecare is ideal for those prone to eczema.
  • The packaging was designed by New York-based design studio Workbyworks. It consists of a medical-grade, recycled Glass vial and pipette without a suction cap, to avoid plastic components. The bottles were sourced from a lab and are finished with recyclable Aluminium caps.
  • The secondary packaging features an elaborately designed recycled cardboard box, including brochures made with unbleached and indigo-dyed Paper.
  • The first limited run, consisting of a "few hundred" 3.5-millilitre bottles, was delivered to "key opinion leaders" across the textiles, fashion, cosmetics, and healthcare industries. Aizome received a 94% response rate, with 44 new business opportunities and three new investors emerging from the venture.
  • Wastecare is not available for purchase, but both May and Subramanian stated that they are keen to build on the project. For now, the serum is being leveraged as an "elaborate medium of storytelling" to inspire a wave of cross-sector collaboration.
  • Aizome and Serviceplan Innovation won the Sustainable Design category at the 2023 Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity for Wastecare.
The serum vials / Source: Aizome
A deconstructed view of the serum's secondary packaging / Source: Aizome

DIVE DEEPER:

  • Textile dyeing and finishing accounts for 20% of the world's clean water pollution. According to Aizome, more than 8,000 synthetic chemicals are commonly used in the textile industry to dye and finish fabrics. These highly toxic substances include neurotoxins and endocrine-disrupting chemicals, causing harm to textile workers, consumers, and the environment. AZO dyes, which comprise up to 70% of all dyes, are known carcinogens.
  • Aizome's mission is to revive ancient Japanese indigo dyeing – also known as 'aizome'. Indigo's active compound, known as tryptanthrin, is extracted from the plant's leaves.
  • The company sells a range of "healthy textiles" in the form of health-enhancing bedding and accessories, ideal for those with allergies and skin sensitivities. The company uses 100% GOTS-certified organic Indian Cotton for its hypoallergenic, antimicrobial, and moisture-absorbing properties. The active components of indigo and other plant-based dyes – such as ruby (red), turmeric (yellow), and sumac – offer anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, and antioxidant properties respectively.
  • Although plant pigments are not new, they are known to fade fast over time, propelling the use of chemical-laden dyes and harmful finishing agents to facilitate mass textile production. Aizome's ultrasound dyeing technology combats this by binding plant pigments to fibre cavities so the colour lasts on the bedding for approximately 20 years (based on a fortnightly wash). 
  • Aizome Ultra uses up to 200 times less water than conventional dyeing practices, which require up to 10,000 litres of fresh water per bedding set. Aizome's method also means that the resulting wastewater contains no toxic substances and can be used as a soil fertiliser.
  • Using plants for dyeing and skincare "is pretty straightforward and well-established" in ancient Ayurvedic, Chinese, and traditional herbal medicine. Unlike synthetic indigo dye, which is a neurotoxin, May says that using natural indigo dye wastewater to formulate Wastecare is a demonstration of where the industry should be - putting the wellbeing of consumers first.
  • The serum is a brown colour, as indigo is inactive and only turns blue when it comes into contact with air. Subramanian explains that "we didn't want to superficially or for aesthetic reasons change the colour in any way because it was important to us that this looked like waste".
  • To use Wastecare, the company advises cleansing and drying the face with a towel, and using the pipette to pull the product from its vial, tapping it gently into the skin.
  • May says that the concept behind Wastecare demonstrates that "whatever is left over can be sold to the cosmetics industry, so there really isn’t waste, per se".
  • Aizome commissioned a study from the University of Cambridge to explore the health benefits of indigo. According to Dr. Youssif M. Ali, a Senior Research Associate, "the study we conducted in cooperation with Aizome clearly shows that the natural plant dye indigo is a promising agent for accelerating dermatological recovery."
  • The company is keen to explore the use of other waste streams, particularly from the food and beverage industry, to create upcycled dyes. May says that all dyes currently on the market are made from virgin plants, but orange peels and leftover grapes from wine production could be repurposed as feedstocks for textile dyes. Aizome is also planning to expand into activewear, creating a line of garments using natural fibres and its innovative dyeing method.
  • Munich-based Serviceplan Innovation works with impactful startups, creating cornerstone campaigns to "make them seen and heard in the industry". Wastecare is the culmination of a two-year partnership with Aizome.

"We’re really interested in collaboration. We are very transparent with the industry about what we do and how we operate."

Michel May – co-founder and CEO, Aizome


Key Design Considerations:

Consider all things

Aizome's entire business model is rooted in the concept of 'Omoiyari', the Japanese principle of consideration and empathy. The purity of Aizome's wastewater is not a haphazard outcome, but a product of intention. Through innovative technology and plant-based inputs, its waste stream has emerged as a valuable resource that can be repurposed by other industries or launched as a cross-sector product in its own right. May says Wastecare demonstrates that any player in any industry must consider all aspects of its product and production before making a choice on the materials it uses. How can you embed the same principle into your own model?

Be the spark

Aizome's end goal with Wastecare is collaboration. Subramanian explains that "it wasn’t about getting more consumers, but rather making more partners within the industry", from fashion designers to yarn suppliers. The project has already put the company in talks with fashion design schools about contributing leftover materials and supplying fabric. "We're very transparent with the industry about what we do and how we operate". May says that, ultimately, the company wants to share its technology to bring together "people who basically want the same thing". Consider ways in which you can leverage your business or product into a catalyst for change within your industry.

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