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Kaltrina Bylykbashi
On Repeat is classed as a Transitional Material.
On Repeat is a UK-based startup offering pouch packaging for beauty refills, including serums, powders, oils, moisturisers, and balms. The packaging is dissolvable and compostable, and allows users to reuse existing bottles and tubs by transferring product from pouch to container. The refill packs are made from two different films: one that dissolves in temperatures near 70 degrees celsius – suitable for oil-based products – and another that is compostable in around six weeks. They are placed in an FSC-certified cardboard wrapper printed with vegetable inks, which can also be composted. The company is TUV and EN13432 certified, as well as being certified as food safe.
Although they reduce packaging waste, On Repeat’s films are not entirely plastic free. Its compostable film bag derives from a mix of plant matter such as eucalyptus, cassava, and corn starch, and is blended with fossil fuel-based biodegradable plastic, known as PBAT. As this still contributes to the manufacturing of petrochemicals, it is not a material we recommend. Some studies have shown that PBAT does not biodegrade in marine or fresh water environments.
On Repeat’s dissolvable film is also made from a material commonly derived from fossil fuels – PVOH. PVOH dissolves rather than biodegrades, leaving synthetic monomers behind. A vinyl polymer joined by only carbon-to carbon-linkages, it's commonly made from fossil fuel-derived ethylene and acetic acid. PVOH is problematic. Many believe that water-soluble PVOH does not accumulate in the environment over time, but further end-of-life studies need to be done to determine that it is truly biodegradable and benign. PVOH formulations may comply with the European standards for biodegradation and compostability, but there are no studies to determine if PVOH’s end-of-life will comply with the EU definition of plastics in the future.
On Repeat says it tested 50 films before landing on its two choices for pouches, so it may well have considered some plastic-free solutions and found them unfit. But there are film and pouch suppliers making these products without fossil fuels. Take Notpla, a Seaweed-based material that can be turned into portion-sized pouches for liquid, oil, and sauces — a material so safe for this world that it's edible. Those looking to package powder-based beauty products should look to Sylvicta, a translucent barrier paper made entirely from wood fibre with no chemical treatment. The paper can be transformed into stand-up pouches and sachets, and its maker — Arjowiggins — is working on a water-resistant coating to enable the packaging of liquids in the future.
