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Kaltrina Bylykbashi
FLWRDWN is classified as a transitional material.
FLWRDWN, by fashion brand Pangaia, is a down-fill material for thermal-insulation composed of wildflowers, a biopolymer, and aerogel made from 85% recycled Paper. Pangaia says the material is completely biodegradable without processing and can be infused with extra enzymes to speed up the process if desired. The material replaces common additions to down such as animal feathers, which is widely considered to be cruel, and petroleum-based polyester filling, which is likely to end up in landfill. The outer shell of the garments are lightweight and come in varying colours and styles, but are made from recycled polyester. The FLWRDWN project received a Best Use of Technology for Good award at Drapers Sustainable Fashion Awards in 2021.
The biopolymer Pangaia uses - which is said to make up 80% of the down-fill - is made from corn, making it PLA, a biomaterial often heralded as an environmentally friendly solution to petroleum-based plastics. However, despite deriving from natural materials, PLA is classed as plastic under the EU definition because it’s chemically modified during manufacture. While there is still little understanding about how the material affects the environment as it decomposes, the fact it’s modified means it is likely to break down into poisonous molecules that harm, not feed the soil. This lack of clarity is why many are still on the fence about it.
While many brands have taken to making vegan down, few have managed to produce something that is free of synthetics. Nudown is one company to have created an innovative solution, by using inflatable air chambers to capture body heat rather than material filling. Elsewhere, The North Face Japan has created a spider silk exterior shell for its jackets rather than any form of polyester, as even recycled polyester ends up in landfill eventually.
