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From the Lab: Sages

Food waste source and resulting powder pigments / Source: Sages
EuropeTextiles
3 MINUTE READ

21 Feb 2024
Mayer Nissim

The little black dress may be a design staple, but fashion wouldn’t be fashion without bursts of vibrant colour. Textile industry startup Sages is looking to completely revolutionise the dyeing industry with safe, natural, and completely sustainable pigments derived from food waste.

It is far from the only natural dye company in the industry, but Sages’ small team focuses on local sourcing of its raw materials to create a truly low impact, circular product. Discover how this pilot program is working towards a brighter future.

Dye samples / Source: Sages
Pigment powders with accompanying food waste / Source: Sages

WHAT IS SAGES NATURAL DYE?

Sages' pigment is a textile dye created entirely from food waste combined with natural renewables like salt. The company has already manufactured 12 different colours made from pre-sorted fruit and veg waste, like cast-off beetroots from farmers or avocado skins from a guacamole manufacturer. Getting the ingredients pre-sorted helps achieve the consistent colours needed for a reliable dye, and all waste is sourced directly from farms and supermarkets within a 15 kilometre radius of London, as well as food processing plants like Agave Networks.

Rather than chemicals, the proprietary process to make the pigments - which took over two years to develop - leaves only filtered and uncontaminated water behind, which can be used again and again. The company also claims to have developed a fully environmentally friendly fixative and is continuing its research and development efforts to create dyes that can fully match the colour and UV fastness of synthetic dyes.

Sages’ pigments can be integrated into existing dye processes, with a short 10-15 minute dyeing cycle offering high colour strength and fastness. They can be used on a wide range of textile materials.

Sages is part-funded and looking for more partners across the industry. It has another 30 colours in development and is hoping to improve its production capacity and move to an ambitious, socially progressive model of community dye hubs, boosting local economies and further reducing the product’s transportation footprint. It is one of six winners of the first Circular Fashion Innovator Fund supported by eBay UK and the British Fashion Council. 

Liquid dyes / Source: Sages

WHAT PROBLEM IS SAGES SOLVING?

Making clothes colourful is a dirty business. According to industrial inkjet expert Dr Alan Hudd, the dyeing and finishing industries are responsible for 3% of global CO2 emissions - more than shipping and aviation combined. All so we can have variety in our wardrobe. What's more, dyeing clothes causes over 20% of global water pollution, poisoning it with carcinogenic chemicals and toxic mordants like chromium, which in turn poison dye workers, waterways, and aquatic life. 

Synthetic dyes replaced natural pigments because they’re cheap and reliable, but the cost to the Earth has never been more apparent, leading many players to consider natural alternatives instead. But there are challenges in this space that have slowed adoption for years: colours aren't as vibrant and perform less well; pigments are more expensive to source and manufacture; and growing plants for fashion dyes means biodiversity and carbon sequestration take yet another hit from the fashion industry.

Sages’ solution of using food and veg waste is a win-win. Not only does it reduce the need to use farmland, it unlocks value from already-grown crops that would otherwise be destined for landfill. Sages doesn’t just want to become the number one supplier of natural dyes either, and is hoping to franchise its manufacturing process to make natural dyes the default choice for the whole industry. Something we can absolutely get behind.


FEEDSTOCK

Fruit and vegetable waste, salt, other natural/renewable materials

AVAILABILITY

Development Stage

CONTACT

emmtaylor25@gmail.com

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