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Pangaia x Timberland

The Pangaia x Timberland footwear capsule / Source: Timberland
AfricaAsiaCottonEuropeLyocellNorth AmericaOceaniaRubberSouth AmericaTencel RefibraTextiles
6 MINUTE READ

Yasmin Ahmed

WHAT WE SAY:

Footwear is a notorious culprit in the fashion industry's share of the world's plastic crisis. With over 22 billion pairs of shoes produced in 2021, and sparse end-of-life options, our shoes all too often end up in landfill, adding to the waste pile-up.

Enter materials science company Pangaia, this time joining forces with outdoor apparel retailer Timberland to debut a footwear collection "designed with nature in mind". The capsule merges modular design with a brand-first returns system for circularity, revamping Timberland's iconic boot by incorporating natural materials, such as banana fibre, and a vibrant colour palette. This joint venture is the latest in a series of brand partnerships on Pangaia's roster, uniting with forward-thinking labels and industry disruptors to pave the way for stylish and sustainable fashion. And we're so here for it.


KEY FACTS:

  • Launched in November 2022, Pangaia's collaboration with Timberland saw the release of an eye-catching, four-piece footwear capsule.
  • The collection includes the Premium Fabric Six-Inch Boot in a duo of signature Pangaia hues, Galaxy Pink and Palm Green, and a third option in Timberland's classic Wheat shade. It also boasts a Fabric Slip-on Mule in Stone Grey.
  • The upper body of the boot and mule is made from a 50/50 blend of abaca banana fibre and organic Cotton, complete with a responsibly grown natural Rubber sole. The lining used in the collection incorporates Tencel Refibra, a breathable Lyocell fibre made from upcycled cotton scraps and eucalyptus wood pulp.
  • The boot also features a removable anti-fatigue footbed, while the mule has been specifically designed for circularity, as the outsole and inner bootie can be easily detached and recycled once the mule has reached the end of its useful life.
  • The mule design is aligned with Timberland's take-back system, Timberloop, offering customers the opportunity to return worn items so that they can be refurbished and resold, or recycled if they are beyond repair. Customers are rewarded with a 10% voucher which is redeemable on Timberland's website.
  • The boots were released on both Pangaia and Timberland's online stores and in select Timberland boutiques worldwide, while the mule is exclusively accessible via Timberland. Available in both men's and women's sizes, the boot retails at GBP 200 (USD 250), while the mule is priced at GBP 140 (USD 170).
Responsibly grown natural rubber sole in Wheat / Source: Pangaia
The Premium Fabric Six-Inch Boot in Palm Green / Source: Pangaia

DIVE DEEPER:

  • According to Statista, 22.2 billion pairs of shoes were produced worldwide in 2021, and PVC and EVA account for around 35% of all footwear materials.
  • The combination of synthetic materials used means that some footwear components can take as long as 1,000 years to decompose, if at all. With no consideration for their lifecycle, it comes as no surprise that approximately 90% of shoes end up in landfill.
  • Switching to plant-based materials and including circularity in the design brief means the shoe industry can rethink footwear engineering and materials, and how end-of-life options are communicated to customers.
  • Opting for renewable and recyclable fibres such as cotton and abaca, this collaboration sets a new precedent for responsible footwear. And incorporating the Timberloop circularity initiative into the capsule makes it a significant step in the right direction, curbing the cycle of waste.
  • The boot is fully seam-sealed and includes a detachable anti-fatigue footbed, an exclusive technology developed by Timberland which is built into the midsole and uses geometric cone support to offer standing comfort and shock absorption. Additional features include monochrome soles, a padded collar for ankle comfort, and subtle flaps over the eyelets for a minimalist silhouette.
  • The boot and mule both feature a custom text block in line with Pangaia's signature design aesthetic, describing the product's material composition. The boot text states: "These shoes are made in part using responsibly grown rubber, abaca plant fiber and organically grown cotton", with the mule version adding that "They are designed for circularity."
  • The mule is a product of the Timberloop circular design process, which encourages consumers to send items back to the company for end-of-life product deconstruction, facilitating recycling by ensuring that each component is placed in the correct waste stream or repurposed. The inner lining of the mule is attached with a webbing system that allows for disassembly, and the sole is also easily detachable. The Timberloop platform includes a marketplace for the resale of refurbished items which is available in the US, but has yet to roll out across Europe and Asia.
  • This partnership is the latest in a series of collaborations that Pangaia has undertaken with like-minded brands and materials to make sustainable fashion collections commercially available. Notable innovations include Pangaia x Spiber, Pangaia x Mirum, and Pangaia x Infinna.
  • A portion of all Pangaia's proceeds are donated to its Tomorrow Tree Fund, launched at the end of 2020, which works with 11 NGOs who plant and protect trees across 15 countries. To date, the initiative has enabled the planting, protecting, and restoration of one million trees.
  • Like Pangaia, Timberland has also made a commitment to a greener future through its conservation efforts with initiatives such as Timberloop and Plant the Change, a pledge to plant 50 million trees over the next five years alongside seven global partners.

"Pangaia and Timberland are two brands on a mission to move the world forward. Designing with nature in mind, this footwear collection combines natural materials, iconic style, and bold colour."

Timberland


Key Design Considerations:

Take-back schemes

Producing a recyclable product is the first step, but it isn’t a guarantee that it will actually be recycled at the end of its life. More often than not, recyclable products and materials still end up in landfill, particularly within the textile industry as most people don't have access to textile recycling bins in their locality. Timberland is tackling this by offering a take-back scheme that enables customers to return the mule once it is no longer in use, so that its constituents may be disassembled and fed back into the production cycle or discarded in the corresponding waste stream for recycling. Rather than leaving this to the consumer, follow Timberland’s lead and consider ways in which you can ensure that your product is recycled.

Read the fine print

The mule incorporates a midsole containing an EVA-blend foam which is said to allow for "high-rebound cushioning". EVA, or ethylene-vinyl acetate, is a plastic commonly used in footwear as a shock-absorbing material. This is a disappointing caveat in what could have been a truly recyclable, circular, and plastic-free design feat, and inevitably lets the product down. This highlights an important principle when it comes to design briefs – the need to think holistically about your final product. Consider using an alternative foam-like material that offers the same ergonomic function as EVA foam without the plastic, like Forager Foam or Tunera.

Plastic-free footwear is the new reality

For eco-conscious consumers who are looking for truly sustainable shoes, this collection is tempting. It ticks almost all the boxes – minus the plastic midsole component – and as consumers become more savvy, elements such as this will be called into question, especially when a 100% plant-based alternative exists. The Degenerate sneaker by Unless Collective is made entirely from plants, in collaboration with NFW. From its natural rubber and Cork sole to its Mirum upper made from plant nutrients, this sneaker is a true testament to what can be achieved without plastic. Take inspiration and be ambitious with your product, open to experimental possibilities, and unwilling to compromise – ever.

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