Kjaer Weis

Kjaer Weis cosmetics in reusable packaging / Source: Kjaer Weis

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5 MINUTE READ

Nate Tyler

WHAT WE SAY:

Kjaer Weis was founded to move the beauty industry forward. The impact of its innovations – which include refillable compacts, compostable cases and certified organic products in plastic-free packaging – is hard to miss.

As others followed the brand's lead, “Earth kindness” within beauty crossed the boundary from niche interest to luxury proposition. Despite its pioneering spirit and considerable industry influence, Kjaer Weis isn’t a plastic-free brand. Even leaders need nudging to leave bad practices behind, and here’s hoping that each new innovation is another step away from plastic altogether.

KEY FACTS:

Kjaer Weis is an organic beauty brand which has pioneered refillable, plastic-free packaging.
Named after its makeup artist founder, it was the first luxury beauty brand to introduce refillable packaging at launch.
The Iconic Edition, launched in 2010, was the first 100% refillable certified organic beauty line in plastic-free packaging. The line comprised cream blush, lip tint and eye shadow, each packaged in a refillable case.
The Iconic Edition was designed by Marc Atlan, who also designed Uni’s refills. It is made from Zamac, a zinc alloy consisting of Aluminium, magnesium and copper. The material is not recyclable, rather it is made to last a lifetime in the same manner as a jewellery box, which inspired its creation.
Refill pans are made from Tin which can be popped out of the case and recycled after use.
The Red Edition followed ten years later. Made from Paper and water-based ink, it is designed to feel like 'lacquered leather' and can be used two to three times before being recycled. Kjaer Weis claims it can also be composted.
Further packaging innovations include a refillable mascara and a refillable lipstick.
The brand announced that as of Summer 2022, all shipping boxes would be fully recyclable and small orders would be shipped in envelopes to reduce GHG emissions.

Lipstick refill designs / Source: Kjaer Weis

Red Edition products / Source: Kjaer Weis

DIVE DEEPER:

Kjaer Weis was founded in 2010 in New York City by Danish makeup artist Kirsten Kjaer Weis.
The brand launched with a refillable concept, an anomaly within a beauty industry which hadn’t yet begun to reckon with the billions of pieces of packaging it was responsible for each year.
The compacts within the collection come in a selection of different geometric shapes, operating with a swivel opening. A magnetic surface within the case keeps the refill pans in place.
Refills are packaged within a recycled cardboard pulp case, and all paper products used by Kjaer Weis are FSC-certified.
While paper refill cases and used tin pans can be added straight to recycling, The Red Edition compacts require some disassembly first. The pan must be popped out using a pin or pencil tip, then the user must pull a perforated tab to reveal and remove the magnet, which is to be thrown away. Finally, the clear adhesive which sits under the pan must be removed. The company doesn’t specify what material the adhesive is.
The Red Edition offers a lower cost entry point for consumers. For instance, a Red Edition Flush & Glow Duo case costs USD 37, while the Iconic Edition equivalent costs USD 56. However, the Red Edition must be replaced, requiring a higher spend long term.
Lipstick and mascara refills are also available, but are more packaging intensive. Lipstick refills are packaged in a pulp case and sit within a capsule made from a metal tube and a plastic base, which is designed to be inserted into the reusable metal bullet.
Refillable mascara tubes are made from a mixture of recycled plastic and aluminium. The inner tube and wand are both made from recycled plastic and nylon. Kjaer Weis states that they can be recycled.
Elsewhere in its range, Kjaer Weis uses a mixture of Glass, rigid plastic, flexible plastic, metal and rubberised pipette droppers.
The Kjaer Weis website states “Our products, packaging, and shipping materials are 100% recyclable, compostable and refillable, sourced from FSC-certified materials, and printed with water-based ink.” This isn’t strictly accurate – for instance, it runs counter to the brand’s own claim that its metal blush compact case is not recyclable or its advice to throw magnets away.
The company formulates using organically certified ingredients across almost all of its products, generally certified by COSMOS or CCPB. It also states it doesn’t use petrochemical preservatives, parabens, phenoxyethanol, perfumes and synthetic colourants. The brand is cruelty-free and doesn’t test on animals or sell in markets that require animal testing.
Waldencast Ventures acquired a controlling share in Kjaer Weis during the summer of 2021. Kirsten Kjaer Weis has remained on board as head of product development and creative.
The brand has reported a sales increase of 200% YOY.

“Education, making customers and retailers alike embrace and fully understand the system. How easy it is... We have made it easy and effortless to buy into.”

Kirsten Kjaer Weis – Founder, Kjaer Weis – as quoted in Forbes

Key Design Considerations:

Taking an all-or-nothing approach

While some Kjaer Weis lines are plastic-free, many aren’t. Completely eliminating plastic within beauty is a tall order – mascara wands pose a particular challenge – but designing with the environment in mind may mean holding back on product releases until the right solution has been found. Why dilute your driving message?

Ask if it's necessary

The Red Edition arguably does the same job as the Iconic Collection, but doesn’t last as long and creates more waste. Paper innovation may have been applied better elsewhere – for instance, within lipstick or mascara casings. Don’t be afraid to ask whether the next innovation is really a necessary one.

In-store alternatives

Brands with a brick-and-mortar presence have more freedom to explore alternative refill models. Imagine a mascara refill dispenser and reusable wand sanitiser, or a hands-free lipstick refill that takes plastic capsules out of the equation. Such an approach crosses refills with service.

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Kjaer Weis

WHAT WE SAY:

Kjaer Weis was founded to move the beauty industry forward. The impact of its innovations – which include refillable compacts, compostable cases and certified organic products in plastic-free packaging – is hard to miss.

KEY FACTS:

DIVE DEEPER:

Kjaer Weis was founded in 2010 in New York City by Danish makeup artist Kirsten Kjaer Weis.

The brand launched with a refillable concept, an anomaly within a beauty industry which hadn’t yet begun to reckon with the billions of pieces of packaging it was responsible for each year.

The compacts within the collection come in a selection of different geometric shapes, operating with a swivel opening. A magnetic surface within the case keeps the refill pans in place.

Refills are packaged within a recycled cardboard pulp case, and all paper products used by Kjaer Weis are FSC-certified.

The Red Edition offers a lower cost entry point for consumers. For instance, a Red Edition Flush & Glow Duo case costs USD 37, while the Iconic Edition equivalent costs USD 56. However, the Red Edition must be replaced, requiring a higher spend long term.

Lipstick and mascara refills are also available, but are more packaging intensive. Lipstick refills are packaged in a pulp case and sit within a capsule made from a metal tube and a plastic base, which is designed to be inserted into the reusable metal bullet.

Refillable mascara tubes are made from a mixture of recycled plastic and aluminium. The inner tube and wand are both made from recycled plastic and nylon. Kjaer Weis states that they can be recycled.

Elsewhere in its range, Kjaer Weis uses a mixture of Glass, rigid plastic, flexible plastic, metal and rubberised pipette droppers.