H&M Cherish Waste

Rhinestone chain-detail court shoes made from Mirum / Source: H&M

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Mayer Nissim

WHAT WE SAY:

We have mixed feelings about these kinds of collections. Yes, it is encouraging that brands like H&M are experimenting with next-gen materials like Mirum. It gives investors confidence that there is mainstream demand and so helps attract the financing they need to scale. But we also want to scream: why are these huge brands so timid?

H&M sells USD 20 billion of clothing each year. We need so much more than these limited edition ‘special collections,’ which often feel like they are more about getting some positive PR than driving meaningful change. We even question the range title. There is no waste in nature - everything becomes a nutrient for the next cycle of growth. So as a designer, use these as inspiration. But please: aim bigger, higher and faster.

KEY FACTS:

H&M launched its Cherish Waste collection in April 2022, inviting customers to "fall in love with materials made from waste." Its fifth drop in its Innovation Stories series, the collections are designed to showcase cutting-edge materials and technologies.
The range includes a pair of rhinestone chain-detail court shoes and a studded cuff bracelet, both of which feature the nutrient plastic-free alt-leather Mirum.
Mirum is a completely plastic-free leather-like material, made from upcycled agricultural sidestreams and responsibly-sourced plant matter, such as corn and risk husk.
Mirum’s lack of a synthetic binding agent means it is fully circular and bio-neutral – it can either be remade into new Mirum or, if discarded, it will return to nature as nutrients without any polluting impact.
The limited edition collection was available globally at selected H&M stores and online. The shoes were priced at USD 199 and the studded cuff was USD 49.99.

Studded cuff bracelet with strap made from Mirum / Source: H&M

Rhinestone chain-detail court shoes - a part of the Cherish Waste collection / Source: H&M

DIVE DEEPER:

Plastics are widely used in shoe manufacturing, especially where leather is avoided. Over 24 billion pairs of shoes were manufactured in 2019, but because shoes are especially complex to produce, the vast majority end up in landfill.
The upper of the shoe is made entirely of nutrient-derived alternative leather, Mirum. The outer sole is made from thermoplastic Rubber, with the lining and sock made from 100% polyester. It has a 3.5 inch metal heel and comes with a detachable thin metal chain around the ankle, decorated with sparkling Glass rhinestones that fastens with a trigger clasp.
The studded cuff bracelet featured a strap made from Mirum, with zinc fastening poppers and studs made from recycled polyamide. These of course could also have been made using Mirum - an opportunity missed.
H&M claims to be attempting to increase its use of recycled polyester made from waste PET, as well as developing technologies to enable textile-to-textile recycling to make recycled polyester more sustainable. This continuation of dependency on fossil fuels is a textile cul-de-sac, not a final destination. The shoe is produced in Portugal, while the bracelet is made in Italy. H&M states its suppliers are all required to sign its Sustainability Commitment, which includes requirements for fair wages and good working conditions.

"Mirum’s lack of a synthetic binding agent means it is fully circular and bio-neutral – it can either be remade into new Mirum or, if discarded, it will return to nature as nutrients without any polluting impact."

Key Design Considerations:

Could you eliminate plastic completely?

While the main bulk of the shoe is made from plant-based Mirum, the rest of the shoe contains a lot of plastic: the outer sole is made from thermoplastic rubber, while the sock lining is made from polyester. As it is, the Cherish Waste shoe feels like a product that is only part-way there, in terms of sustainability – especially if the plastic components complicate the recycling process.

How can you design for end-to-end circularity?

Perhaps the most significant advantage of Mirum is that any waste elements or worn-out product can be remade into new Mirum. Or if that is not feasible, the material will (eventually) return to nature with no ill effects, due to its bio-neutral, nutrient-rich, plant-based ingredients. However, if a product sees Mirum stuck to thermoplastic rubber and a polyester lining, is the Mirum itself destined to end up alongside this plastic, in landfill?

How much Mirum is available?

H&M launched the Cherish Waste collection in April 2022 and it was out of stock in the US a month later, and only available in limited sizes elsewhere. While the Cherish Waste collection was always positioned as a limited edition, Natural Fiber Welding is still scaling its production and has reported "unprecedented demand" for Mirum. Limited collections may be the only option until capacity increases to mass market volumes.